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Quadra Island, British Columbia, Canada

Rock Climbing around Quadra Island

seaside crags and mountainside walls

Chinese Mountains Area


Rock climbing on Chinese Mountains Quadra Island, BC
Photo: Wolf Pack Corner, Keystone Crag, Quadra Island, BC

Chinese Mountains are a well-known Quadra Island landmark and the destination for one of the Island's more popular hiking trails. There are two peaks, the north and the south peak with trails up to the top of both. The network of hiking trails up and around Chinese Mountains and to nearby Morte Lake make getting to the crags a breeze and offer mountain biking and hiking as additional activities from the same parking lot (50° 8'29.76"N 125°15'28.38"W).

Rock climbing Quadra Island, BCThe bluffs at Chinese Mountains are scattered up the hillside below the south peak. Most of the rock is best reached from the west side trail except the upper, main crag which can be reached off the main trail that goes up to the pass between both peaks - more on that later. The walk to these crags is ridiculously short! Morte Lake is nearby and is basically part of this same climbing area.

The rock is a granitic basalt, it is mostly clean and well weathered. Some of the coarser weathered rock has numerous marble-sized quartz crystals giving a very grippy surface. Like the Vancouver Island basalt there are few cracks and natural protection so almost all the routes are bolt protected.

Highlights of climbing here include: the views over the southern peninsula of Quadra Island and the mountains on both sides; the mainland Coast Range mountains to the east and the peaks of Strathcona Park on Vancouver Island to the west, the pretty moss-covered ledges and the large, numerous soaring raptors, surviving veteran old-growth Douglas Fir and Lodgepole Pine trees.

Rock climbing Quadra Island, BCHelmets should always be worn while climbing to protect from head injury in case of a fall but they are especially advised here as there are loose rocks hidden in the moss that are easily dislodged. This is a climbing area in progress - stay tuned for additional information and ongoing route development.

Moss carpets at the top and around the crags are very beautiful and have numerous wildflowers popping through but they can be slippery and are not well adhered to the underlying rock. Take extreme care moving around on the exposed ledges especially in wet conditions.

QUADRA ISLAND ROCK CLIMBING
Guidebook available>

Mail order your copy today or ask for Quadra Island Rock Climbs published by Wild Isle at your local outdoor retailer or look for it on Quadra Island at Book Bonanza in Quathiaski Cove or at the Yak Shack in Heriot Bay.

Track your climbs: many of the routes on Quadra have been added to Sendage.com. See more here>

rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

Access: The Chinese Mountains trailhead is located toward the centre of Quadra Island north of Heriot Bay. From the ferry terminal in Quathiaski Cove drive north on West Road following signs for Heriot Bay. In the village of Heriot Bay turn left on Hyacinthe Bay Road or Cramer Road (which also joins Hyacinthe Bay Road) and continue north. Pass North Gowlland Harbour Road and down a steep hill. Pass the Walcan Road on the left where the trailhead for Morte Lake (which does join the Chinese Mountains trail) is located. Drive up the steep hill past the Eco-Centre and then watch for the turn-off to Chinese Mountains on the left before the top of the hill. It's about a 15 minute drive from the ferry.

Map of Chinese Mountains rock climbing, Quadra Island, BC

From the Chinese Mountains trail parking lot there are two trails.

Straight ahead is the most direct trail on a steep, old logging road that leads to a forested saddle between the North and South Peaks this is the quickest way to reach either peak and an optional route to the East Wall.

To the left is the west side (Beech's Mountain) trail that traverses a forested bench past most of the lower crags, then heads uphill to the top of the South Peak with a spur heading higher up to Beech's Mountain.

Both of these trails meet at the South Peak forming a loop. Beech's Mountain is reached by a spur off this loop on the west side of the South Peak.


rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

Donations of bolts & hangers are very welcome to support the development of this very promising climbing area. A donation of $100 will buy 12 bolts + hangers and belay anchors, enough to equip one route, but any contribution is appreciated.

Either use the PayPal button right or purchase your bolts from MEC and ship your donation of 3 inch 3/8" stainless steel wedge bolts and/or hangers to: Quadra Climbers c/o PO Box 280 Quathiaski Cove BC V0P 1N0

- Thanks, see you at the crags!

Ask the locals questions and find out what's new at our Quadra Climbers FaceBook Group>

QUADRA ISLAND ROCK CLIMBING Guidebook available>

Mail order your copy today or ask for Quadra Island Rock Climbs published by Wild Isle at your local outdoor retailer or look for it on Quadra Island at Book Bonanza in Quathiaski Cove or at the Yak Shack in Heriot Bay.

Chinese Mountains rock climbing crags


ONLINE GUIDE SAMPLE

Below is a small selection of the climbing routes at Chinese Mountains. For complete details of over 170 Quadra climbing routes please order a copy of the Quadra Island Rock Climbs guidebook available from Wild Isle Guides>


MANZANITA WALL

Manzanita Wall, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

Manzanita Wall is one of the closest crags to the parking lot. The wall is steep but not quite vertical with a mix of clean, smooth and well-weathered rock. The climbing is less strenuous than neighbouring Leaning Tree Edge. It’s a good choice for a warm up or a full session, with a variety of good quality, moderate routes.

To reach Manzanita Wall hike along the Beech’s Mountain trail just 150m from the parking lot until a well-trodden path can be seen heading uphill from the trail, up a draw of mossy boulders. Look through the trees to see the Great Wall high above. Hike up the draw following the path out on to the open mossy bluff. Traverse left out to the middle of the open, mossy meadow. Hike left (west) across mossy ledges into a cluster of trees and then up a small talus slope, still trending left (west) to the base of the crag.

The main crag face is a wide wall, split into two distinct halves, divided by a shallow corner/gully down the middle. The right half is higher than the left with more continuous lines. At around 30m high, caution is needed with rappels and top ropes using a 60m rope.

To the left (west) and right (east) of the main part of the crag are shorter wings, each with additional routes.

Reach the top on either the right or left side of the crag. On the right: two treed ledges run out to the anchors, the lower to the top of the east wing and the upper ledge to the top of the Main Wall. On the left: a short a steep scramble leads to the open mossy ledges at the top of the west wing.

The trail along the base of Manzanita Wall continues left (west) across a prominent forested draw connecting to Keystone Crag. Leaning Tree Edge, Black Crag and the Great Wall are above and to the right (east).

West Wing - a 15-20m wall at the far left end of the crag. From the centre of the crag follow the trail left and just before it drops into the forested draw hike up behind large old-growth firs over a band of easy ledges to the base of a long, low-hanging, square-cut roof with a very large salmon-berry bush growing under it.

DD DEERFLY DIRECT 5.8 15m *
At the extreme left (west) side of the whole crag. Keep to the right edge of the delicate wall using the arête as needed. Tricky finish to big ledge. (6 bolts - rappel rings)

FA: Mick Bromley, Philip Stone 21 July, 2014

Main Wall - the central, highest part of the crag. The main wall is divided by a shallow gully-like scoop. The left side has a wide, but exposed belay ledge that runs all the way from DEERFLY DIRECT to the base of BATMANZ MIDDAY FLIGHT. Care is needed on the ledge, the smooth rock can be very slick.

The base of the climbs to the right of the gully are easily reached just above the central staging area.

MB MANZ BEST FRIEND 5.8 24m *
Scramble up to the right edge of the belay ledge below the central corner of SHEEP THRILLS (bottom anchor shared with BATMANZ). Start up the first short wall trending left to a ledge (5.8). Follow a low-angle apron left across the lower part of the gully. Then climb direct to the left of the gully on steepening rock. Pull over a small bulge into a steep, shallow corner (5.8) to finish onto a very small belay ledge. (11 bolts - rappel ring anchor)

FA: Bill Phipps, Philip Stone 17 July, 2014

BP BIRDS OF PREY 5.7 27m ***
Fun route, great value for the grade. Starts on the right side of the main wall. Begin up the short lower block on the brown rock to the ledge (5.7) (take care with loose rock on the ledge). Climb up the steep wall above the ledge on positive holds and generous bolt protection (5.7). Make a committing step right to gain an angled ramp and arête. Follow the ramp leftward (5.5) with increasing exposure & stunning views on good rock and big holds. (10 bolts - Rappel Ring).

FA: Philip Stone, Renée Blouin 19 May, 2014

East Wing - to the right of the main, central part of the crag is a shorter steep wall broken by a ledge at 10m. The base is easily reached on the wide ledge below the wall. Top anchors are reached from a narrow ledge on the right.

ML MANZLAUGHTER 5.9 15m **
Found at the very far right (east) end of the crag. The most continuous line on this part of Manzanita. Climb a steep, narrow rib (5.8) on surprisingly generous holds to a horizontal break. Pull up the bulging wall above finding more good holds (5.9). Cross a ledge at its thinnest point and continue direct up a prow. A few exposed moves (5.8) to the belay ledge. (7 bolts - Rappel Rings)

FA: Philip Stone, Mick Bromley 21 July, 2014


LEANING TREE EDGE

Leaning Tree Wall, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

Rock climbing Quadra Island, BCLeaning Tree Edge is a steep, clean crag hidden behind a stand of old growth Douglas Fir trees, growing close, two even lean right against the upper edge of the rock. Reach the base by hiking up from the west side trail 150m west of the parking lot up an open, mossy bluff passing Manzanita Wall which is to the left (west). The open bluff ends at a small talus slope at the bottom of Leaning Tree Wall and a narrow, forested draw runs up higher along the left side of the crag past the top of Manzanita Wall.

Access the top ledge up a steep gully on climber's left of the crag. A ledge half way up the gully leads out to the right onto the anchor ledge. Continue up the gully to a large, ledge at the very top of the crag.

The steeper gully at climber's right of the crag from the base of Flash in the Pan can also be used to reach the top - good for getting to the righthand side anchors. There is some loose talus at the top of the climber's right side of the crag, be careful with footing and dislodging missiles.

BC BALL AND CHAIN 5.11b 17m **
The steep, clean grey line at the very lefthand side of the crag. Start up steep face to a left-angled ramp. Follow the ramp up left and then leave it climbing direct up over-vertical face to finish (7 bolts).

FA: JJ Wytrwal, Anthonie PrihatiningJati 22 August, 2014

FB FLASH BACK 5.10c 20m **
Takes a line to the right of the righthand of the leaning trees. Great sustained climbing on positive holds with a strenuous mid-section. Start behind the leaning tree up steep, clean grey rock to the left of a boulder-pinnacle to a thin crack in a left facing corner on a semi-detached (but solid) block. Climb over the block into a shallow corner on good holds to mantle onto a narrow black ledge halfway up. Step left on the ledge and then continue direct alongside the tree up a steep, grinding wall. Pull onto a rest ledge and then a few easier moves to finish (8 bolts).

FA: Anthonie PrihatiningJati, Philip Stone 6 May, 2014

FF FLASH FORWARD 5.10a 25m ***
Fantastic climbing, one of the best quality routes at Chinese Mountains. Start up the patch of steep, clean grey rock 4m right of the boulder-pinnacle, finding hero holds right from the get-go. Climb direct up ridiculously incut horizontal slot jugs to a rest and then up to a vertical column of shattered light-coloured rock. Trend left back onto the coarser dark rock into the base of a steep, shallow right-facing corner. Whine about the thin holds and then climb the corner stepping out left at the top to better holds to finish. (9 bolts - rap rings).

FA: Philip Stone 6 May, 2014

FL FLASH LITE 5.10a 18m **
Scramble up the dusty gully at the right end if the crag, about 10m, to a narrow but decent belay ledge (1 bolt bottom anchor). Climb direct line with numerous wedge angle pinch holds then better horizontal incuts. Finish up awkward V-corner on thin holds to reach jugs to top out. (6 bolts - rap chain)

FA: Philip Stone, Renée Blouin 11 July, 2014


BLACK CRAG

Black Crag, Chinese Mountains, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

Black Crag is located just above and to the left of Leaning Tree Edge hidden behind a tangle of wild cherry trees. The rock is well weathered and coarse and the crag is not as steep as its neighbours. In winter and after rain the crag is prone to seeping but generally dries out through the spring and summer months.
Follow the approach details as for Leaning Tree Edge. Where the path dips down to the base of Leaning Tree just continue 30m up the forested draw to the base of the obviously black rock.

BH BLACK HUMP 5.8 25m *
Climbs a line up the left side of the crag (bolted anchor).

Open Project

BM BLACK MAGIC 5.8 20m *
The central main line on the crag. Steep face on good holds leads to a thin face (5.8)
(1 bolt, 3 pitons - bolted anchor).

FA: Tak Ogasawara 3 October, 2015


THE GREAT WALL

The Great Wall is a complex of steep rock divided by ledges and breaks, wrapping around the south & west side of South Chinese Mountain below the popular hikers’ trail lookout. The exposure and views from the climbs here are spectacular. It has some of the longest and most scenic climbing routes on Quadra.

Access: The Great Wall is reached via the same paths as Leaning Tree Edge. Follow the Beech’s Mountain trail and after just 150m take the climbers’ path uphill to an open, mossy meadow, The Great Wall can be seen high above the trees. Continue up the mossy ledges into the trees. Pass Leaning Tree Edge which is to the right and up the steep forest past the base of Black Crag. The start of ‘SILK ROAD’, at the lowest point of the wall, is the best landmark. A wide mossy ramp heads up to the right giving access to Xiǎo Crag and the base of Jumping Frog Wall. Behind is a nice lookout on a mossy ledge above Manzanita Wall, perfect for gearing up and hanging out.
The top can be reached by either a long hike around to the left or a steeper, more direct 3rd class gully to the right of Jumping Frog Wall (see photo topo above). Take care with descents on this high 50m wall.

SR SILK ROAD 5.10 (TBC) 45m **
A long, fine adventure up an exposed wall with spectacular positions overlooking Hyacinthe Bay and Rebecca Spit. Locate the start at the base of the lowest point of The Great Wall.
P1 - Easy 4th class steps to the first bolt then follow a narrow prow (low 5th) to a band of black rock. Step left and up the black rock to a small ledge. Continue direct up clean, shattered, grey rock to a break at the base of a bulge. Negotiate left-leaning, overlapped corners (10-) and move right into a prominent corner. Climb the left wall of the corner onto a prow and follow the prow up to a sloping ledge and anchor. (13 bolts, 30m)
P2 - Leave the belay to the left up thin moves (10-) on a clean face to a shallow groove and climb up on a narrowing prow to the anchor. (5 bolts 15m). Descend with 2 rappels or carefully walk off, heading up ~20m then left.

Setter: Philip Stone 2017

SD SCENIC ROUTE DIRECT 5.11 (TBC) 26m ***
Start as SR & trend right at bolt 5 to a ledge & small roof. Pull over the roof (11b) into a corner. Move right out of the corner on to a well-defined arête. Follow the beautifully exposed arête to the belay ledge (12 bolts). Follow P2 of SC to finish.

Setter: Philip Stone 2017

SC THE SCENIC ROUTE 5.10 (TBC) 40m **
Locate the start by going right ~25m up the mossy ramp and then cut back left at the first obvious ledge.
P1 - Start at the lowest point of the undercut roof stepping up to the left to gain a series of cracks in a shallow groove. Follow the cracks to a wide ledge. Cross the ledge and up a short wall to a second ledge and the anchor (? bolts, 20m)
P2 - From the belay pull up over a small roof carefully using some detached blocks. Head direct up the incredible, steep face on perfect holds (10-) to a crack. Climb the crack (2 or 3 small 0.25”-0.75” cams useful) to the anchor. Descend with 2 rappels or walk off. (7 bolts, 22m).

Setter: Philip Stone 2017


 

JUMPING FROG WALL

Jumping Frog Wall, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

Jumping Frog Wall is located on one of the tiers of the Great Wall to the west of the shallow gully that divides the wall. It can be identified from below by the two very large pine trees growing on the base ledge.

The bottom of the crag can be reached by hiking up from the Beech's Mountain trail on the open bluffs past Manzanita Wall and Leaning Tree Wall. Note that at the time of writing the route anchors DO NOT have rappel rings - bring stainless maillons.

C CHANTRELLE 5.9 20m *
Start by the pine snag up the first wall to the angled-ramp. Pull up over a small roof to face. Follow a blocky rib finishing up a steep prow to the anchor. (6 bolts)

FA: Anthonie PrihatiningJati 2009

R REDNECK 5.8 20m
Start 2m right of pine snag. Climb up lower wall to the angled-ramp. Climb up low angle blocks into grey/white alcove. Steep moves to small triangular roof into a narrow corner. Easier climbing up a blocky rib to the anchor.
Route Setter: Anthonie PrihatiningJati 2009

H HIPPIE 5.8 20m
Start midway between pine snag and live pine tree. Climb initial wall to the angled ledge. Pull onto a small prow and follow it up to a ledge rest. Head direct up a rib to a small roof and prow to a rectangular slot.
Route Setter: Anthonie PrihatiningJati 2009

WG A WISH GRANTED 5.10c 20m ***
The first bolted sport-route at Chinese Mountains on great rock with interesting character. Start behind the pine tree to the diagonal ledge. Gain a rib and face to a small alcove. Climb face to a small bulge. Pull over the bulge to two very shallow, stepped, left-facing corners. (5 bolts).

FA: Anthonie PrihatiningJati 17 July, 2009

KR KRAKEN RUM 5.10c 22m ***
Superb climb, one of the best in the area on excellent rock. Start at the far right edge of the wall up a clean, smooth wall. Climb into a shallow right-facing corner. Step left out of the corner over a small roof. Keep to the prow over a second overlap then up easier face on an arête finishing on the right side of the arête. (7 bolts).
FA: Anthonie PrihatiningJati 17 July, 2009


EAST WALL

East Wall, Chinese Mountains, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

The East Wall is located below the Chinese South Mountain lookout. The rock here is some of the best in the area, steep and very clean. The atmosphere and views over Hyacinthe Bay are spectacular. The east aspect is handy for its early morning sun or cooler afternoon shade. Take care with rappels on this 30m wall. This wall has the best undeveloped route potential in the area with much of it hidden in the trees to the right.

Access: The base of the wall is easy to reach off the main Chinese South Mountain trail. From the parking lot follow the main trail 15-20 mins to the junction for Chinese South Mountain. Head left toward the South Peak and cross a bridge. Leave the trail heading left, on the climbers’ path just above the creek. The path angles uphill to the bottom of the East Wall. The base trail continues leftward from the forest out onto an open mossy ledge that narrows to a dead-end at a fir tree and prominent arête on the wall.
The East Wall can also be reached from the Beech’s Mountain trail via the path to the top of Leaning Tree Wall or Black Crag and then right (east) along treed ledges below Jumping Frog and the Great Wall.

The top can be reached by either the hiking trail up to the lookout and then down ledges to the top of the crag, or by a steep, right-trending ramp/gully at the climbers’ right end of the crag then cut left along the top.

PP PANORAMA PROW 5.? (T.B.C.) ** 23m
Follow the base ledge to a stunted fir tree. Carefully step down (3m) , often wet, exposed steps to a lower ledge (handline) to a bottom anchor with rap rings. Start up steps heading left in to a corner. Climb the steep corner and mantle up onto a ledge. Follow the left side of a narrow prow and easier climbing to the anchor. (?? bolts - rap ring anchor)
Route Setter: Philip Stone 2017

WF 1001 WAYS TO FAME 5.9 ** 28m
Start ~5m right of a pine tree below a small roof. Sneak up easier moves and pass the roof leftward to gain a corner. Follow a left-trending ramp then direct up the face to the anchor below a small bulging headwall. (8 bolts - rap ring anchor).

FA: Anthonie PrihatiningJati, Tyler Southam 2010

DE DRAGON EYES 5.? (T.B.C.) ** 28m
Start as for 1001 WTF to the base of the first corner. Climb the corner direct and up a steep face to easier ground. Trend right in to a left-leaning corner/ramp/slab system and follow that up to the anchor. (10 bolts - rap ring anchor)
Route Setter: Philip Stone 2017

PT PAPER TIGER 5.?(T.B.C.) *** 28m
At a break in the low, base roof gain the wall on small ledges. Head left under a bulge. Pull around a detached fin into a corner. Climb direct up corner to easier open rock. Finish up a series of steep corners. (11 bolts - rap ring anchor)

Route Setters: Anthonie PrihatiningJati (2010) and Philip Stone (2017)

AW ART OF WAR 5.?? (T.B.C.) ** 28m
Start with a few thin moves up a short slab. Gain a system of corners and trend diagonally left past the third bolt. Climb steep corners and blocks to a ramp/corner system and wide cracks through a bulging headwall. (?? bolts - rap ring anchor)

Route Setter: Philip Stone (2017)

GL THE GREAT LEAP FORWARD 5.?? (T.B.C.) ** 28m
Start up the same short slab as AW. Climb direct up steep corners to the right side of a rounded bulge. Take care with some detached blocks and flakes and climb a vertical crack up the bulge to the anchor. (10 bolts - rap ring anchor)

Route Setter: Philip Stone (2017)


TRAILSIDE CRAG

Trailside Crag, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

Trailside Crag is the closest crag to the parking lot. Reach by hiking along the west side trail just 200m

The top can be reached by a short walk up to the right side of the crag up the mossy draw that also leads up to Manzanita and Leaning Tree.

TC TRAILSIDE CRACK 5.6 20m ***
Follow the large steep crack up the corner. Trad pro 1-3.5" and an in-situ piton.

FA: Tak Ogasawara 9 May, 2015

 


HIDDEN CORNER

Hidden Corner Crag is on the downhill side of the west side trail immediately below Sickle Edge. Hike about 450m west of the trailhead parking lot on the west side trail, passing the Morte Lake connector junction, and upwards as the trail follows an old cat track. When Sickle Edge is visible on the uphill side look on the downhill (left) side for a spur path leading down mossy ledges. Follow the path to the base of the crag.

The top anchors can be reached from a small, pretty lookout 75m further up the trail. From the flat opening head right toward a fallen pine and then down an easy but exposed moss ramp to a comfortable anchor ledge. There is a slightly exposed shortcut up a mossy ramp that can be used to go between the base and the top anchors.

The crag is divided into two parts. The left (west) side is a wide triangluar face with a prominent 'skyline' rib running up the angled edge and a nice steep, dark, shaded wall below. From the corner-gully at the right end of the dark wall (90˚ to the dark face) is a smaller square-cut bluff with a even-cut faces and a nice jutting prow. There's some really fun climbs on super solid, feel-good rock.

Citizens Arete, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

FS FAIRY STEPS 5.5 ** 25m
A nice long fun, easy climb with just enough of a 5.5 crux to make it challenging for the grade. Climbs the clean rock up the broad face to the left of the prominent arête bounding the left side of the crag. Climb direct over several short, steep steps with good rests and fun problems. (2 bolt anchor)

FA: Philip Stone, Renée Blouin 1 March, 2015

F FOUNDATION 5.4 ** 8m
A perfect scramble for the youngsters. Climbs a short, low-angle wall below Citizen’s Arête. Locate the anchor at the base of CA. Juggy feel-good climbing. Take care descending the ledges to the base (Top rope - 2 bolt anchor)

CU CIVIL UNREST 5.8 * 22m
Climbs the highest stretch of wall below the right side of Citizens' arête. Start at a narrow left-trending ramp to gain the wall then climb direct toward the tiny tree. Finish up the top part of the arête on the skyline. (5 bolts - Rap Ring bolt anchor)

FA: Philip Stone, Renée Blouin 15 March, 2015

Hidden Corner, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

SV SECRET VALENTINE 5.8 * 17m
Starts at the bottom of the deep mossy corner-gully and step up onto the left edge of a square apron. Scramble up ledges as the rock steepens and the ledges get smaller. Make a tricky mantle to a short thin face, climb direct keeping close to the left edge of the face overlooking the corner-gully. Toward the top the climbing gets more strenuous on generous holds, with a fun, doable finish. (6 bolts - 2 rap ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Blouin 15 February 2015

BM BE MINE 5.7 ** 17m
A mirror image of the previous climb taking a line up from the right edge of the lower apron. Climb up the face along an arête above a mossy right-facing corner. Keep to the clean rock and then either step right into a shallow corner system for an easier finish, or keep to the steeper face and pull over the small roof directly above to finish. (7 bolts - 2 bolt anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Blouin 15 February 2015

M MAGPIE 5.9 * 14m
Squeaks a line up a strip of rock just left of the mossy corner at the far right side of the wall. Scramble over the lower blocks and climb the nice steep face above. Some fun moves on good, steep rock. (4 bolts- 2 rap ring anchor)
Route set by: Philip Stone


EVENING GROUP

Evening Wall, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

The Evening Wall Group is located 700m west of the Chinese Mountains trailhead parking lot immediately above the west side trail. It is one of the driest of the crags and with its sunny, southwest exposure is a good choice for winter and early season.

Rock climbing Quadra Island, BCThe crags are split into several sections. At the bottom, tucked behind some trees and bushes, is a short, outcrop: Below the Horizon. To the right of that is a path that leads up to the base of a long, even-angled bushy gully which provides access to Wild Rose Country and the top anchors.

To the left of the gully is Horizon Wall and to the right Yardarm Bluff. From the base of the gully a wide ledge runs to the left (west) to the start of Horizon and then up a few gravel ledges to the base of a steep, chossy gully and the base of Twilight and Ironwood Corner.

Evening Wall is the high, wide, blocky, ledgey face overlooking the trail with some short, multi-pitch routes. Two exposed ledges linked at the left side (west) give access to the anchors in the middle of the wall.

Below the Horizon

Below the Horizon, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

A small clean outcrop tucked in behind a clump of bushes and trees at the base of Evening Wall. In the centre of the base is a small roof. Three bolted belay anchors at the top.

DC DEADMAN'S CHEST 5.10c 10m *
Short, high-quality boulder moves, reminiscent of the 10-pluses at Keystone. Start on the left side of the roof alcove. Pull out of the alcove on superb holds and up steep face direct to a strenuous mantle problem. Traverse the foot ledge rightward and then up easier face moves direct to the anchor. (3 bolts- rap ring anchor)

 

ST SUNKEN TREASURE 5.9 9m *
Short but super fun climb Start at the very right edge of the overhang. Climb past the angled crack onto a shallow prow then direct to finish. Strenuous with great holds. (4 bolts)

FA: Philip Stone, Tak Ogasawara 10 June 2014

DJ DAVEY JONES LOCKER 5.8 8m
Start at the right side of the crag just a few metres up the angled base. Steep climbing on good holds and grippy crystals. (3 bolts - Rappel Rings)

FA: Tak Ogasawara, Philip Stone 10 June 2014

Evening Wall

Evening Wall, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

The ledge at the top of Below the Horizon cuts to the base of a gully splitting Horizon Wall from Evening Wall and accesses a number of excellent climbs on Evening Wall. From left to right.

ES EVENING STAR 5.6 20m *
Climbs a wide, moderate crack up the middle of the wall. Reach the base by traversing the exposed ledge from the base of Ironwood Corner or by traversing in from the left directly off the trail. (TRAD to 4 - rap ring anchor).

FA: Philip Stone, Mark Zimmerman, Tak Ogasawara 3 May, 2015

BS BEDTIME STORY 5.7 25m *
The obvious clean line up the slab on nice, grippy rock. The route as far as the first optional bolted anchor is a perfect climb for kids and first time climbers. The full route makes a good extra first pitch for Evening Star or Cinderella Story. Make a tricky step to gain the rock and then easy climbing direct to a ledge and the optional first anchor. 16m 5.6 (3 bolts - bolted anchor). To continue, gain the next bulge on the right. Make a balancey step left onto the slab and climb direct to the next ledge and anchor. Total: 25m 5.7 (6 bolts - rap ring anchor).
FA: Philip Stone, Nic Manders 15 April, 2016

CS CINDERELLA STORY 5.9 65m **
A fun, rambling adventure up the full height of the crag. Start up Bedtime Story for a 3 pitch 65m route.
P1 - Two options to start: to the left of the anchor make tricky moves up a shallow flake (10b) to gain an right-trending ramp; or to the right of the anchor step onto a small block and make strenuous moves (5.9) direct up the steep face. Pull off the face onto a slab. Climb two short corners to a grassy ledge 20m (5 bolts + TRAD 0.25 to 0.75 - rap ring anchor)
P2 - From the belay ledge climb direct up clean face underneath a prominent roof. Trend right to a left-facing corner below the roof. Pull up and out right to bypass the roof and then direct up the face. 5.7 20m (5 bolts - rap ring anchor).

FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 15 April, 2016

MX MIDNIGHT EXPRESS 5.8 55m *
A moderate line with three short pitches up the full height of the crag with some fun climbing and possible variations.
P1 - Start behind a pair of large fir trees to the left of the top anchors on Below the Horizon. Climb a short steep step to gain slabby rock above. Belay on same ledge as base of Ironwood Corner 5.7 15m (4 bolts - rap ring anchor)
P2 - Climb the left edge of a huge detached pinnacle/flake. Continue direct above the pinnacle following cracks and steep face to the wide belay ledge. 5.8 20m (3 bolts + TRAD 0.5” to 2”)
P3 - From the belay ledge climb up a left-angled break and then direct over a small roof, easier to the left. Continue up over a series of blocks forming a detached flake and a final short steep headwall to finish. 5.7 20m (6 bolts - rap ring anchor).

FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 12 April, 2015

 


UPPER REALM

Evening Wall, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

The Upper Realm is a cluster of small outcrops above Evening Wall and Keystone Crag - about the same elevation and to the left (west) of Bat Bark Wall. The features here are mostly short, best suited to bouldering. There is a lot of potential and the situation and setup is perfect with great views and excellent flat mossy ledges for landings. A crash pad and a wire brush is all that is required for hours of fun!

To reach the Upper Realm head uphill from either Keystone Crag or Yardarm Bluff. There is a prominent treed ledge that runs across most of the hillside (see photo above). There is a long, short wall hidden behind the trees above Evening Wall, it's a bit mossy but there is lots of cleaner, drier rock out on the open ledges. There a couple of nice short crags at the top of Keystone between it and the base of Bat Bark too.

It's easy to make a loop following the flagged routes from Sickle, up to Keystone and then down to Leaning Tree and back to the west side trail. Also from the base of Bat Bark heading west across to the top of Evening Wall (see photo above).

Higher up around the west side trail as it nears the top of Chinese Mountains south peak are more short outcrops, one or two look very promising but they are a bit removed from the rest of the crags.

THE BALCONY

Eagle Crag, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

The Balcony is one of the nicest of the rock outcrops at the Upper Realm, a cluster of short walls high up the hillside above the Evening Group. It’s a bit of a hike to get to, for the size of the crag, but it does have a very pretty setting, good rock, lots of potential for more similar problems with easy access to top anchors and safe, flat base-ledge all with a fantastic view perched high above the West Side Crags. A 20m rope is more than long enough for this crag.

ACCESS:The most direct a route to The Balcony is via the path up the forested draw past Leaning Tree Edge. Hike from the Chinese Mountains parking lot on the Beech’s Mountain trail for 150m then leave the trail to the right on the uphill side and follow the path up the long draw past The Great Wall. The terrain levels out on a forested terrace. Watch for a spur path to the left that heads up onto a small treed knoll.

Another option is to follow the Beech’s Mountain trail past the turn off to Eagle Crag and all the way up to a flat, muddy puddle from where a flagged path heads up, to the right, through the forest to the crag. This path makes a good return for a loop with the Leaning Tree approach

MM MAISIE’S MAZE 5.7 7m *
Climbs the ledgey arête at the left edge of the face. (Top Rope)

KK KID YOU KNOT 5.9 9m *
Climbs the breaks up the left edge of the crag. (Top Rope)

SE SOLO EFFORT 5.8 9m *
Shallow corner to right-trending ramp. (Top Rope)

CO CHEEKY ONE 5.10a 7m *
Climbs thin, slabby face (Top Rope)

IC IMP’S CRACK 5.8 7m *
Climbs the breaks and curving crack up the right edge of the crag. (Top Rope)


EAGLE CRAG

Eagle Crag, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

Eagle Crag is the largest bluff in the Chinese Mountains - Morte Lake area with adventurous climbing on some of the Island's longest routes. It is a dramatic feature, in some ways could be considered the third peak of Chinese Mountains and has stunning views, especially to the west over Discovery Passage and the Vancouver Island mountains. The rock is some of the best in the area with nice continuous lines of relatively clean, very-coarse andesite.

The crag is located about 400m to the west of Sunset Slab and Evening Wall. It's ~60m high with most routes equipped with mid-station belays to break the climbs into 2 pitches/ 30m rappel descents.

Access is off the West Side/Beech's Mountain trail. From the main Chinese Mountains parking lot head west on the Beech’s Mountain trail passing Sickle Edge and the Evening Wall group. Continue on a long traverse across a talus slope to a pronounced corner on the trail where there is a small but fast-moving creek that cuts the trail corner and often washes out the trail. Leave the trail heading west across a series of easy open bluffs on an obvious path.

Watch for the access path to the top of the east side of the crag which strikes up steeply from the main route to the base as the main path reaches a patch of forest. The main path ascends a mossy ramp-boulderfield and reaches the centre of the crag at the base of a large grey corner (the start of Talon). About 40 minutes from the parking lot. The forested ledge below the Main Wall makes a good base and an important landmark to identify and reach the climbs on the main wall.

Good paths reach the top on both ends of the crag. The path to the east end of the crag and the routes on Flying Snag Wall leaves the main path about 80m before the base of the Main Wall. The path to the west end of the crag is easily found by following the salal-covered ledge along the base to the far left and scrambling up easy mossy ledges.

At the far left (west) end of the crag a flagged line also descends a forested draw down to the fern flats below and then along an old logging road bed to join the Morte lake trail just east of Little Morte Lake. This makes a great way to link the Chinese Mountains crags with the Morte Lake area.

The crag is divided into three main sections by two steep gullies: the West Wing to the left (west) Main Wall in the centre and the East Wing to the right (east).

WEST WING

Eagle Crag, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

This is the large section of the crag to the far west (climber’s left) end of the crag. Follow the trail to the base of the prominent grey corner and then continue west along the base of the crag for another 75m. There is a small open meadow that makes a warm sunny hangout, overlooked by a small, rounded rock - the Eagle Egg - otherwise most of the base of the crag is shaded by trees.

FG FOOL'S GOLD 5.6 55m *
A fun, moderate climb up the far left end of the crag. Good, clean rock. Slabby climbing on generous holds and lots of exposure. Can be climbed in two pitches or one long pitch.
Start up an angled corner into a gully. Cross the gully above a rock pinnacle and up to a narrow ledge. Mantle over a short step onto a small but comfortable optional belay ledge. (2 ring rappel anchor). Head up left off the ledge onto a narrow, exposed, rounded face. Climb direct up a beautiful weathered face with sticky friction and generous holds. Rappel descent or walk-off left. (13 bolts - 2 rap ring anchor)
FA: Tak Ogasawara, Philip Stone 9 April, 2015

CX CRACK'TERYX 5.6 55m *
A long, wide crack running up the full height of the crag. Start up a short, steep step directly along the crack. Climb several steps with easier ground between. Optional belay at halfway. Protection is spaced but solid. (TRAD 1” - 4” - rap ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 29 May, 2015

RR RAT RACE 5.8 28m *
Shared start with MT . Start up a steep wall below a blocky bulge. Pull up and right into a right-facing corner. Either follow the line of bolts on MT to the first ledge (5.7) or climb the two stacked corners left of the bolts with Trad pro (0.3 to 1.5”). From the ledge take the left bolt line up steep face with a thin, incipient crack to belay ledge (5.8). (10 bolts - rap anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 10 July, 2016

MT MOUSETRAP 5.9 50m **
P1 - Begin below a blocky bulge, climb up and step right into a right-facing corner. Climb direct over a series of steps to a ledge (5.7). Follow the righthand bolt line off the ledge up a steep face with some fun moves on superb, steep, grippy rock and pull onto a ledge 25m 5.9 (10 bolts - rap anchor)
P2 - Climb to the right off the ledge and up a clean face which steepens to a difficult bulge. Back out of the trap and renegotiate the bulge to gain a ledge. Two shorter, easier steps. 25m 5.9 (6 bolts - rap anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 10 July, 2016


The following outcrops are part of the EAGLE CRAG complex, found at the east end, below Flying Snag Wall.

WINDFALL WALL

Windfall Wall is located at the bottom of the East Wing of the Eagle Crag complex, immediately above the main base access trail. It is easy to see from the trail and identified by two large fallen Douglas Fir trees that cross over one another. One of the windfalls crosses the main base access trail so it’s almost impossible to miss as you duck under it.

TR TRAJECTORY 5.10d 18m **
An excellent climb that takes a direct line up the left side of the clean part of the crag. Start to the right of the undercut roof at the base and climb witheringly steep rock on positive holds. Trend left up steep face then directly up to gain a short lower angle face. Rest at the small ledge and then climb the right wall of the clean corner. Pull a small overlap to easier ground and the belay anchor. (7 bolts - 2 rappel ring anchor)
Route Set: Philip Stone FA: Léo Pontier, Nic Manders 1 May, 2016

RE-ENTRY 5.11 (T.B.C.) 19m **
Start as for Trajectory but trend right trending up steep face toward the bulging roof. Rest under the bulge and then climb it direct. (2 rap ring anchor)
TOP ROPE

SWITCHBACK WALL

A small crag located at mid-height at the right (east) end of the Eagle Crag complex. Switchback Wall is immediately above and left of the east top access trail, halfway up at a prominent switchback where the trail turns to the right so it’s hard to miss. A cool, low-angled access ramp runs up from the far right edge of the wall up to the belay anchors and connects with the ledge at the base of Flying Snag Wall and Raven Corner. Some shady routes for hot days.

TT TIFFANY-TWISTED 5.8 22m **
Starts at the base of an old-growth Douglas Fir with a curved trunk 10m left of the east-access trail switchback. Gain the steep face and trend up and left. Climb direct to a shallow corner. Pass the roof up the corner to easier ground. Follow a corner ramp to finish. (8 bolts - 2 rappel ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Nic Manders 15 April, 2016

SA SWITCHBACK ARETE 5.9 (T.B.C.) 25m **
Climbs the prominent arête with a ledge break a third of the way up. Start by a pair of large Douglas Fir trees directly by the switchback in the east top-access trail. Climb the face to the right of the arête up to the ledge. Gain the crest of the arête and follow it up to easier climbing and on to the belay anchor. (no bolts - bolted anchor)
TOP ROPE

W WASHBOARD 5.8 20m **
To the right of Switchback Arête is a nice even face. Climb the line directly up the centre of the face. (6 bolts - 2 rappel ring anchor)
FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 15 April, 2016


LOWER EAGLE

Raven Corner, Eagle Crag, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

Tucked below Eagle Crag, hidden by tall trees, is this nice, mostly-shaded crag. The wall curves from below the base of Eagle Crag Main Wall into a forested draw below the West Wing. The right (east) side has some nice weathered rock and the wall steepens to the left (west) with some potential for some harder, sporty lines.
Currently the crag with the most untapped development potential in the area.

ACCESS: Follow the access details for Eagle Crag on the previous page following the Beech’s Mountain trail to the washout-creek and then hike along the climber’s path traversing the mossy ledges westward. Pass the east access path junction keeping straight ahead looking for the base of Windfall Wall on the uphill side of the path. Immediately before the eponymous windfall a path breaks off on the downhill side and follows a wide mossy bench to the base of the crag.
Alternatively continue up the talus slope and along the base of the main crag to the base of the West Wing. At the far left (west) end of Eagle Crag a flagged route leads down a forested draw along the base of Lower Eagle, eventually linking with the Morte Lake Trail. The base of Lower Eagle may also be reached from the Morte Lake trail using this same path. 15 minutes from the Morte Lake trailhead watch for a flagged route up an overgrown logging road bed on the uphill side of the trail (right/north). Hike up the road bed following the flags to a steep forest draw. The crag overlooks the draw..

F FLEDGLING 5.9 * 27m
Start at the obvious break in the small, low undercut wall toward the right (east) end of the crag. Climb up passing a mossy ledge to the left and trend left into the base of a ‘V’-notch with a left-facing corner. Pass the notch then up the steep face to the left of the corner direct. An easier variation stems up the corner. (9 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 6 May, 2016

TF TAIL FEATHER 5.9 ** 25m
An obvious line of clean, continuous rock at the right (east) end of the crag. Start up the face climbing direct toward a small roof. Pass the roof to the left to gain the steep face above. Fun moves on small, positive holds direct as the face tapers to an arête. Follow the arête to ledges and the anchor. (8 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Nic Manders 6 May, 2016


 

Morte Lake Area >

Rock climbing on Chinese Mountains Quadra Island, BC
Photo: A Dream of Wild Onions, Sunset Slab.

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