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Quadra Island, British Columbia, Canada

Rock Climbing around Quadra Island

seaside crags and mountainside walls

Updates & New Routes


New route development is happening regularly at the Quadra Island Crags. The local guidebook is printed in small batches with ongoing new information added with each printing. But as long as new routes are being added there will be a need to check in for fresh information - that's posted here. Check the date of the first ascents listed below against the date you purchased your guidebook.

DOWNLOAD SPRING 2017 UPDATES (PDF)>

The best way to keep totally up to date is to purchase one of the eBook editions. These digital editions are updated automatically and allow you to plan your next climbing day on your mobile or computer any time.
For Mac iOS at the Apple iTunes Store>
For Android & PC at Google Play>


NEW ROUTES

ADDED Spring 2017

THE GREAT WALL

The Great Wall is a complex of steep rock divided by ledges and breaks, wrapping around the south & west side of South Chinese Mountain below the popular hikers’ trail lookout. The exposure and views from the climbs here are spectacular. It has some of the longest and most scenic climbing routes on Quadra.

Access: The Great Wall is reached via the same paths as Leaning Tree Edge. Follow the Beech’s Mountain trail and after just 150m take the climbers’ path uphill to an open, mossy meadow, The Great Wall can be seen high above the trees. Continue up the mossy ledges into the trees. Pass Leaning Tree Edge which is to the right and up the steep forest past the base of Black Crag. The start of ‘SILK ROAD’, at the lowest point of the wall, is the best landmark. A wide mossy ramp heads up to the right giving access to Xiǎo Crag and the base of Jumping Frog Wall. Behind is a nice lookout on a mossy ledge above Manzanita Wall, perfect for gearing up and hanging out.

The top can be reached by either a long hike around to the left or a steeper, more direct 3rd class gully to the right of Jumping Frog Wall (see photo topo above). Take care with descents on this high 50m wall.

SR SILK ROAD 5.10 (TBC) 45m **
A long, fine adventure up an exposed wall with spectacular positions overlooking Hyacinthe Bay and Rebecca Spit. Locate the start at the base of the lowest point of The Great Wall.
P1 - Easy 4th class steps to the first bolt then follow a narrow prow (low 5th) to a band of black rock. Step left and up the black rock to a small ledge. Continue direct up clean, shattered, grey rock to a break at the base of a bulge. Negotiate left-leaning, overlapped corners (10-) and move right into a prominent corner. Climb the left wall of the corner onto a prow and follow the prow up to a sloping ledge and anchor. (13 bolts, 30m)
P2 - Leave the belay to the left up thin moves (10-) on a clean face to a shallow groove and climb up on a narrowing prow to the anchor. (5 bolts 15m). Descend with 2 rappels or carefully walk off, heading up ~20m then left.

Setter: Philip Stone 2017

SD SCENIC ROUTE DIRECTC 5.11 (TBC) 26m ***
Start as SR & trend right at bolt 5 to a ledge & small roof. Pull over the roof (11b) into a corner. Move right out of the corner on to a well-defined arête. Follow the beautifully exposed arête to the belay ledge (12 bolts). Follow P2 of SC to finish.

Setter: Philip Stone 2017

SC THE SCENIC ROUTE 5.10 (TBC) 40m **
Locate the start by going right ~25m up the mossy ramp and then cut back left at the first obvious ledge.
P1 - Start at the lowest point of the undercut roof stepping up to the left to gain a series of cracks in a shallow groove. Follow the cracks to a wide ledge. Cross the ledge and up a short wall to a second ledge and the anchor (? bolts, 20m)
P2 - From the belay pull up over a small roof carefully using some detached blocks. Head direct up the incredible, steep face on perfect holds (10-) to a crack. Climb the crack (2 or 3 small 0.25”-0.75” cams useful) to the anchor. Descend with 2 rappels or walk off. (7 bolts, 22m).

Setter: Philip Stone 2017


EAST WALL

East Wall, Chinese Mountains, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

The East Wall is located below the Chinese South Mountain lookout. The rock here is some of the best in the area, steep and very clean. The atmosphere and views over Hyacinthe Bay are spectacular. The east aspect is handy for its early morning sun or cooler afternoon shade. Take care with rappels on this 30m wall. This wall has the best undeveloped route potential in the area with much of it hidden in the trees to the right.

Access: The base of the wall is easy to reach off the main Chinese South Mountain trail. From the parking lot follow the main trail 15-20 mins to the junction for Chinese South Mountain. Head left toward the South Peak and cross a bridge. Leave the trail heading left, on the climbers’ path just above the creek. The path angles uphill to the bottom of the East Wall. The base trail continues leftward from the forest out onto an open mossy ledge that narrows to a dead-end at a fir tree and prominent arête on the wall.
The East Wall can also be reached from the Beech’s Mountain trail via the path to the top of Leaning Tree Wall or Black Crag and then right (east) along treed ledges below Jumping Frog and the Great Wall.

The top can be reached by either the hiking trail up to the lookout and then down ledges to the top of the crag, or by a steep, right-trending ramp/gully at the climbers’ right end of the crag then cut left along the top.

PP PANORAMA PROW 5.? (T.B.C.) ** 23m
Follow the base ledge to a stunted fir tree. Carefully step down (3m) , often wet, exposed steps to a lower ledge (handline) to a bottom anchor with rap rings. Start up steps heading left in to a corner. Climb the steep corner and mantle up onto a ledge. Follow the left side of a narrow prow and easier climbing to the anchor. (?? bolts - rap ring anchor)
Route Setter: Philip Stone 2017

DE DRAGON EYES 5.? (T.B.C.) ** 28m
Start as for WF to the base of the first corner. Climb the corner direct and up a steep face to easier ground. Trend right in to a left-leaning corner/ramp/slab system and follow that up to the anchor. (10 bolts - rap ring anchor)
Route Setter: Philip Stone 2017

PT PAPER TIGER 5.?(T.B.C.) *** 28m
At a break in the low, base roof gain the wall on small ledges. Head left under a bulge. Pull around a detached fin into a corner. Climb direct up corner to easier open rock. Finish up a series of steep corners. (11 bolts - rap ring anchor)

Route Setters: Anthonie PrihatiningJati (2010) and Philip Stone (2017)

AW ART OF WAR 5.?? (T.B.C.) *** 28m
Start with a few thin moves up a short slab. Gain a system of corners and trend diagonally left past the third bolt. Climb steep corners and blocks to a ramp/corner system and wide cracks through a bulging headwall. (?? bolts - rap ring anchor)

Route Setter: Philip Stone 2017

GL THE GREAT LEAP FORWARD 5.?? (T.B.C.) *** 28m
Start up the same short slab as AW. Climb direct up steep corners to the right side of a rounded bulge. Take care with some detached blocks and flakes and climb a vertical crack up the bulge to the anchor. (10 bolts - rap ring anchor)

Route Setter: Philip Stone 2017

 


ADDED June & July 2016

Horizon Wall

Horizon Wall, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

Horizon Wall is the central part of the Evening Wall Group with a well-defined front prow and a large black face curving around to the right above the long, even-angled gully that separates the wall from Yardarm Bluff. Reach the start of the climbs from the west side trail passing the small outcrop of Below the Horizon on the right up a short path. An obvious wide ledge breaks across to the left to the start of Horizon and the Evening Wall climbs. Straight above is the gully to Wild Rose Country and the top of the whole Evening Group of crags.

P PHARMACIDE 5.10c 22m ***
Climb direct up a rib on the lower band of black rock to the overlapping roof. Pull the roof with on painfully small pinches better holds on the face above (10c) and continue climbing direct to the anchor up easier face (7 bolts - rap ring anchor).

FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 7 June, 2016


WEST WING

Eagle Crag, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

This is the large section of the crag to the far west (climber’s left) end of the crag. Follow the trail to the base of the prominent grey corner and then continue west along the base of the crag for another 75m. There is a small open meadow that makes a warm sunny hangout, overlooked by a small, rounded rock - the Eagle Egg - otherwise most of the base of the crag is shaded by trees.

RR RAT RACE 5.8 28m *
Shared start with MT . Start up a steep wall below a blocky bulge. Pull up and right into a right-facing corner. Either follow the line of bolts on MT to the first ledge (5.7) or climb the two stacked corners left of the bolts with Trad pro (0.3 to 1.5”). From the ledge take the left bolt line up steep face with a thin, incipient crack to belay ledge (5.8). (10 bolts - rap anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 10 July, 2016

MT MOUSETRAP 5.9 50m **
P1 - Begin below a blocky bulge, climb up and step right into a right-facing corner. Climb direct over a series of steps to a ledge (5.7). Follow the righthand bolt line off the ledge up a steep face with some fun moves on superb, steep, grippy rock and pull onto a ledge 25m 5.9 (10 bolts - rap anchor)
P2 - Climb to the right off the ledge and up a clean face which steepens to a difficult bulge. Back out of the trap and renegotiate the bulge to gain a ledge. Two shorter, easier steps. 25m 5.9 (6 bolts - rap anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 10 July, 2016

BS BROMANCING THE STONE 5.9 55m ***
An enjoyable route with a good variety of climbing positions, rock features and an especially excellent, direct second pitch.
P1 - Start on the left side of a recess where the wall can be gained without the undercut base-roof. Climb a steep step to a wide ledge. Step left & up an open-book corner to a left-angled slab/ramp 5.9 27m (8 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
P2 - Climb direct from the anchor up a right-facing corner gully. Several fun steps. 5.9 28m (9 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
FA: Jesse Mcilwraith, Philip Stone, Nic Manders 16 June 2016

EL THE EAGLE HAS LANDED 5.10b 55m ***
An excellent, characterful climb with distinctive rock, a fun, exposed crux. Notable for the nice, continuous pitches.
P1 - Start in the centre of a recess on grey rock. Follow an angled crack to a series of horizontally overlapped-blocks. From a rest pull a bulge to a steep shallow, right-facing corner and on to a large ledge. 5.9 27m (10 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
P2 - Climb a right-facing corner then at a roof pull out left and up the steep face. 5.10b 28m (8 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
FA: Jesse Mcilwraith, Philip Stone 15 June 2016

M MEC-ANIZATION 5.10b 55m ***
A great route with an especially outstanding second pitch. Do it to pay homage to the lone pine & props to MEC Victoria.
P1 - Start on the right of the recess up a crack that runs along the edge of a small pinnacle. Climb the pinnacle up to a ledge with bushes. Continue direct up a steep wall and slab in a right-facing corner. 24m 5.9 (8 bolts - ring anchor)
P2 - Move right from the belay into a right-facing corner. Climb the corner to a ledge then angle left under a bulge. A few thin moves up excellent face direct with superb, small-holds. Belay at the ‘lone’ pine. 27m 5.10b (9 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
FA: Jesse Mcilwraith, Philip Stone 15 June 2016
Bolts provided by MEC Victoria, with much love from the climbing staff.

DB DRIVE BY 5.10- 60m **
A wandering line that links three pitches of enjoyable climbing on good rock. Pitches can be mixed with FIRE BAN.
P1 - Scramble up to a ledge below a small roof, same as FB. Climb ribs in an angled corner on the left to a steep face. Climb direct to a small overlap. Pass a small, right-facing corner and up face to the belay. 5.9 25m (9 bolts - bolted anchor)
P2 - Pad up the low-angle slab above the anchor and gain the wall to the left on coarse, black rock. A short steep face leads up to a ledge and anchor. Can be run together with pitch 3. 5.10- 10m (4 bolts - bolted anchor)
P3 - Leave the belay heading rightward up easy ground in a gully to a small vegetated ledge. Step onto a rock pinnacle and climb the thin face on distinct, yellow rock, then direct finishing up a shallow arête. 5.10- 25m (9 bolts - rap ring anchor)
Descend by walk-off or 2x 30m rappels using rings at FIRE BAN pitch 1 anchor.
FA: Philip Stone, Mick Bromley 13 August 2016

MAIN WALL

Eagle Crag, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

EV EAGLE-ITARIAN VETERINARIAN 5.10+ 15m *
Up the clean, semi-detached pinnacle with a large, square-cut roof 20m right of Talon. Takes the steep wall right of the roof. Fun, sustained climbing direct to a vertical slot to finish. (6 bolts - upper rap anchor - lower anchor for TR). (6 bolts - rap anchor)
FA: Allan Ramsay 3 July, 2016


Support Route Development

Donations of bolts & hangers are very welcome to support the development of this very promising climbing area. A donation of $100 will buy 12 bolts + hangers and belay anchors, enough to equip one average route, but any contribution is appreciated.

Either use the PayPal button right or purchase your bolts from MEC and ship your donation of 3 inch 3/8" stainless steel wedge bolts and/or hangers to: Quadra Climbers c/o PO Box 280 Quathiaski Cove BC V0P 1N0

- Thanks, see you at the crags!


Ask the locals questions & find out what's new at Quadra Climbers FaceBook Group>

QUADRA ISLAND ROCK CLIMBING Guidebook available>

Mail order your copy today or ask for Quadra Island Rock Climbs published by Wild Isle at your local outdoor retailer or look for it on Quadra Island at Book Bonanza in Quathiaski Cove or at the Yak Shack in Heriot Bay.

 

Rock climbing on Chinese Mountains Quadra Island, BC
Photo: A Dream of Wild Onions, Sunset Slab.

Ask the locals questions and find out what's new at our
Quadra Climbers FaceBook Group>

QUADRA ISLAND ROCK CLIMBING Guidebook available>

Mail order your copy today or ask for Quadra Island Rock Climbs published by Wild Isle at your local outdoor retailer or look for it on Quadra Island at Book Bonanza in Quathiaski Cove or at the Yak Shack in Heriot Bay.


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