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Quadra Island, British Columbia, Canada

Rock Climbing around Quadra Island

seaside crags and mountainside walls

Updates & New Routes


New route development is happening regularly at the Quadra Island Crags. The local guidebook is printed in small batches with ongoing new information added with each printing. As long as new routes are being added there will be a need to check in for fresh information - and that is posted here.

Check the date of the first ascents/ route setting listed below against the date you purchased your guidebook to find the newest information.

DOWNLOAD SPRING 2017 UPDATES (PDF)>

Another great way to keep totally up to date is to purchase one of the eBook editions. These digital books are updated regularly and new versions upload to your mobile or desktop.
For Mac iOS at the Apple iTunes Store>
For Android & PC at Google Play>


NEW ROUTES

Spring 2017


 

THE GREAT WALL

The Great Wall is a complex of steep rock divided by ledges and breaks, wrapping around the south & west side of South Chinese Mountain below the popular hikers’ trail lookout. The exposure and views from the climbs here are spectacular. It has some of the longest and most scenic climbing routes on Quadra.

Access: The Great Wall is reached via the same paths as Leaning Tree Edge. Follow the Beech’s Mountain trail and after just 150m take the climbers’ path uphill to an open, mossy meadow, The Great Wall can be seen high above the trees. Continue up the mossy ledges into the trees. Pass Leaning Tree Edge which is to the right and up the steep forest past the base of Black Crag. The start of ‘SILK ROAD’, at the lowest point of the wall, is the best landmark. A wide mossy ramp heads up to the right giving access to Xiǎo Crag and the base of Jumping Frog Wall. Behind is a nice lookout on a mossy ledge above Manzanita Wall, perfect for gearing up and hanging out.

The top can be reached by either a long hike around to the left or a steeper, more direct 3rd class gully to the right of Jumping Frog Wall (see photo topo above). Take care with descents on this high 50m wall.

SH STAIRCASE TO HEAVEN 5.7 40m
The leftmost and looks to be the more moderate 2 pitch route on the Great Wall. Good climbing on solid rock.
P1 - Starts up low-angle face and short step steps on an right-trending ramp system up to the prominent ledge. 20m
P2 - Head direct off the belay up steep face to gain a right-trending rib. Climb the rib past several small breaks up to the anchor. 20m (rap ring anchor).

CLOSED PROJECT Setter: Tak Ogasawara 2017

OE ORIENT EXPRESS 5.10b 50m **
A sweet, direct line on good rock. Start up a shallow, prominently curved scoop ~6m left of the lowest point of the wall.
P1 - Climb up the scoop and then trend right on a ramp to avoid a roof. Mantle onto a ledge and head left. Pull up an overlap on to face of rounded blocks. Steep moves (10b) up a shallow corner to belay. 30m (10 bolts - rap ring anchor)
P2 - Head direct up steep, shallow corners to a mantle & ledge. Deek right & up a small arête to clip the perfectly placed last bolt then return down to tackle the steep crack direct (10a) to a strenuous finish. 20m (4 bolts - rap ring anchor)

FA: Hunter Lee, Philip Stone, Tak Ogasawara 7 May, 2017

SR SILK ROAD 5.10c 50m ***
An excellent climb up an exposed wall with spectacular views and remarkably good rock especially in the upper part.
P1 - 4th class steps then up easy face to a band of black rock. Step left and up to a small ledge. Continue direct up clean, grey rock to the base of a bulge. Pull up over the overlaps and make a delicate rock-over rightward (10b) into a corner. Climb the corner and prow finishing with a bellyflop onto a sloping ledge and the anchor. 30m (13 bolts - rap ring anchor)
P2 - Leave the belay to the left with thin moves (10c) on a clean face. Climb direct up a steep, narrowing prow on great rock to the anchor. 20m (5 bolts - rap ring anchor). Descend with 2 rappels or scramble up ~25m 4th class then walk off left.

FA: Allan Ramsay, Philip Stone 9 May, 2017

D DYNASTY 5.11 (TBC) 50m ***
P1 -Start as SR & go right at 3rd bolt to a bulging roof. Pull over the roof (11b) into a corner. Move right out of the corner on to a well-defined arête. Follow the beautifully exposed arête to the belay ledge (12 bolts - rap ring anchor).
P2 - From the belay pull up over a small roof carefully using small detached blocks. Head direct up the incredible, steep face on perfect holds (10a) to a crack. Climb the crack (1 small 0.25”-0.75” cam useful) to the anchor. Descend with 2 rappels or walk off. (6 or 8 bolts, 22m).

FA Pitch 2: Allan Ramsay, Philip Stone 9 May, 2017

M MEANDARIN 5.11- (TBC) 10 or 30m **
Reach the start from ~25m up the mossy ramp right of the start of SR and cut back left at the first obvious ledge (class 3).
Pull up onto rounded blocks then step left to gain a series of cracks in a shallow groove. Follow the cracks to the anchor ledge. Either finish at this anchor (6 bolts - rap anchors) or scramble up a short wall to the Dynasty anchor and finish up P2 of Dynasty.

Setter: Philip Stone 2017

NY NYMPH 5.7 15m *
Takes a narrow rib of clean rock starting left of the top of Xiao Crag and below the base of Jumping Frog. A good early lead. Scramble up a short step to a grassy ledge. Step left to the base of the defined rib and climb direct with a few steep moves toward the top. (6 bolts - rap ring anchor) Optional walk off right.

FA: Christine Reddick, Philip Stone 20 May, 2017

 


 

JUMPING FROG WALL

Jumping Frog Wall, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

Jumping Frog Wall is a tier at the right of The Great Wall. It can be identified by the large pine-tree and snag on the base ledge. The rock is excellent, it is steep with interesting character, great holds and a notably weathered texture. It is prone to winter seeping which helps keep it very clean. Routes are sporty & strenuous with similar high quality to nearby Leaning Tree. The position overlooking the forest and ocean below is spectacular and it’s easy to see why this was the first crag to be developed at Chinese Mountains.

ACCESS: Follow the approach path for Leaning Tree Edge and The Great Wall. Either of the ledge ramps heading right from the draw at Black Crag head up toward Jumping Frog. The most obvious is the wide ramp heading right from the start of SILK ROAD.
It is possible, but time-consuming, to reach the top anchors by making two x30m rappels down from the hikers’ lookout at the top of the South Chinese Mountain. Locate the first station 10m down the mossy ledges from the lookout. The second station can also be reached by traversing in on a ledge fromt he right, or by climbing AMPHIBIAN.

A AMPHIBIAN 5.9 36m **
P1 - Start at the left side of the wall. Steep moves up to a roof. Pull the roof then head left to gain a sweet crack. Follow the crack to anchor. 24m (8 bolts - rap ring anchor)
P2 - Easy climbing (5.4) trending right to the anchor 12m (4 bolts - rap ring anchor). Can rap to all other anchors.

FA: Allan Ramsay, Philip Stone 9 May, 2017

N NEWT 5.7 28m *
Climbs the heavily cracked rock on the recessed face at the very righthand side of the wall. Start up a steep first wall to the first bolt then step right to a blocky, crack and corner system. Good sustained climbing direct with a few strenuous moves on bomber holds to finish. Has a bit of an ‘alpine feel’, with bolts! (6 bolts - rap ring anchor)

FA: Chris Jensen, Hunter Lee, Philip Stone, Christine Reddick 20 May, 2017


XIAO CRAG

Black Crag, Chinese Mountains, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

Xiǎo Crag (pron. ‘shee ow’, meaning ‘small’) is a small outcrop of nice, clean rock between the ledges directly above the top of Black Crag and below the base of Jumping Frog. There are clusters of gnarled Douglas Fir trees at the base and at the top and great atmosphere with The Great Wall looming overhead. The height and character of the crag is perfect for young and novice climbers but some care is needed at the base ledge. The top anchors can be reached via ramps on climbers’ left or right.

CS CHOP SUEY 5.7 (TBC) 7m
Avoid the steep step at the base and climb the left side of the crag.

W WONTON 5.8 (TBC) 7m *
A short but fun line up the nice face in the centre of the crag.

FC FORTUNE COOKIE 5.7 (TBC) 7m *
Takes the lower angled apron at the right side of the crag.

Settter: Philip Stone


TAO CRAG

Black Crag, Chinese Mountains, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

Tao Crag (pron. ‘dow’) is a south-facing tier of the Great Wall complex between Jumping Frog and the East Wall. The face is fairly clean with some steep rock in the lower-half easing in angle toward the mid-ledge. A ledge at half height, divides the crag and can be used to access the mid-anchors. The base area is spacious, the location, away from the busier crags, accessible anchors and overall layout makes Tao and neighbouring Xiǎo crags suited for instructional groups. It is set up for top roping with one route set for leading in two short pitches - a good choice for learning multi-pitch technique with little commitment.

ACCESS: Follow the approach for Black Crag up the forested draw and take either the left or right access paths to the top of Black Crag. Continue up ledges past the base of Xiǎo Crag to the open mossy meadow below Tao Crag. Can also be reached from The Great Wall base ramp over the top of Xiǎo Crag then down.

The mid-way ledge & anchors can be reached by following the path up to the base of Jumping Frog and cutting out right on the first obvious ledge. The very-top anchors are reached by the narrower second ledges that crosses the face to the right of Jumping Frog Wall and then up stepped ledges (see Great Wall photo topo)

CH CHI 5.9 (TBC) 17m *
Climb the narrow, steep tapered rib of dark rock to the right of the white rock at the left side of the crag, direct to a ledge. Continue direct up face above to the anchor on the mid-way ledge (bolted anchor) No lead bolts ATTP

Settter: Philip Stone

The next two climbs have two pitches. The upper pitches are easily mixed with the lower lines.

YN YIN 5.9 (TBC) 25m *
1) 5.9 13m. Start just right of CH climbing a steep corner to a ledge. Continue direct up face to the belay. (rap ring anchor)
2) 5.6 12m Follow right-trending cracks and slabby-flakes. Walk-off left or rappel descent (4 bolts - rap ring anchor)

Settter: Philip Stone

YG YANG 5.9 (TBC) 26m **
1) 5.8 14m. Start up the front of the cube-shaped block. Climb a short, steep wall onto the flat ledge at the top of the cube. Climb the short corner off the cube and then direct up the face to the anchor. (5 bolts - rap ring anchor)
2) 5.9 12m. Cross the mossy ledge and climb the nice face of clean, dark rock on either side of the bolt line to a steep step and then easier ground to the anchor. ( 5 bolts - rap ring anchor)

Settter: Philip Stone

ZD ZEND IT 5.6 (TBC) 16m *
Start in the corner to the right of the big cube block. Climb the corner on the steep face of white rock to the right. Pass a diagonal break and continue direct up the face above to the anchor. (bolted anchor)

Settter: Philip Stone


EAST WALL

East Wall, Chinese Mountains, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

The East Wall is located below the Chinese South Mountain lookout. The rock here is some of the best in the area, steep and very clean. The atmosphere and views over Hyacinthe Bay are spectacular. The east aspect is handy for its early morning sun or cooler afternoon shade. Take care with rappels on this 30m wall. This wall has the best undeveloped route potential in the area with much of it hidden in the trees to the right.

Access: The base of the wall is easy to reach off the main Chinese South Mountain trail. From the parking lot follow the main trail 15-20 mins to the junction for Chinese South Mountain. Head left toward the South Peak and cross a bridge. Leave the trail heading left, on the climbers’ path just above the creek. The path angles uphill to the bottom of the East Wall. The base trail continues leftward from the forest out onto an open mossy ledge that narrows to a dead-end at a fir tree and prominent arête on the wall.
The East Wall can also be reached from the Beech’s Mountain trail via the path to the top of Leaning Tree Wall or Black Crag and then right (east) along treed ledges below Jumping Frog and the Great Wall.

The top can be reached by either the hiking trail up to the lookout and then down ledges to the top of the crag, or by a steep, right-trending ramp/gully at the climbers’ right end of the crag then cut left along the top.

There is a rappel anchor at the base ledge ( below the start of DE) that can be used to descend down to ledges and the path that links to the Great Wall & Leaning Tree. If you already have the rope out, a quick rap can save some hiking to reach these crags.

PP PANORAMA PROW 5.10a ** 23m
Follow the base ledge all the way left following a hand-line down a few exposed steps to a bolted anchor. Start climbing up blocky steps trending left into a steep corner. Climb the corner (10a) with surprisingly challenging moves to mantle onto a ledge. Follow the left side of a narrow prow with easier climbing to the anchor. (8 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Chris Jensen, Philip Stone, Hunter Lee 20 May, 2017

CT CHINATOWN 5.10d *** 25m
Superb climb on excellent rock with lots of exposure. Pull up over the base roof to the first bolt (5.9). Move up into a short corner. Pull through the corner and head left across a block and up steep face to a rest. From the right side of a rounded hand traverse follow a thin seam leftward with non-existamt footholds onto an arête (10d). Climb direct over a ledge and short wall to finish. (9 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Hunter Lee, Philip Stone, Chris Jensen 20 May, 2017

DE DRAGON EYES 5.9 ** 28m
Start as for 1001 WTF to the base of the first corner. Climb the corner direct and up a steep face to easier ground. Trend right in to a left-leaning corner/ramp/slab system and follow that up to the anchor. (10 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Robin Sutmöller, Philip Stone 21 April, 2017

OT OVERTIME 5.10a *** 28m
Pull up into a steep corner with strenuous moves to start. Continue up the corner (10a) to a ledge. Above the ledge trend left to the left side of a smooth, steep wall. A challenging high-step (10a) and mantle leads to a ledge in an alcove. Follow the easy, left-leaning slab/ramp up to the belay. (10 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Hunter Lee, Philip Stone 7 May, 2017

PT PAPER TIGER 5.10b *** 28m
At a break in the low, base roof gain the wall on small ledges. Pull around a bulge onto a detached fin into the base of a corner. Climb direct up corner (10a) to easier open rock. Face climbing leads to a tricky move into a steep corner (10b/c). Continue up the corner moving left near the top to find easier climbing to reach the anchor. (11 bolts - rap ring anchor)

Route Setters: Anthonie PrihatiningJati (2010) and Philip Stone (2017), FA: Hunter Lee, Philip Stone 7 May, 2017

Toward the right end of the face are a series of overhanging arêtes and corners. The next two routes share a start at a smooth rectangle of rock that provides an easier way to gain the wall.

AW ART OF WAR 5.10d ** 28m
Start with a few thin moves up a short slab. Gain a system of corners and trend diagonally left past the fourth bolt. Weave up and left through steep corners and blocks to a ramp/corner system through the bulging headwall.
(11 bolts - rap ring anchor)

Route Setter: Philip Stone (2017)

GL THE GREAT LEAP FORWARD 5.10d *** 28m
Start up the same short wall as AW. Climb direct up a steep corner weaving right then left finding a line of weakness through steep corners and faces to below a roof under a rounded bulge. Bypass the bulge on the right over a stack of dangerously detached blocks moving left onto the bulge and back to solid rock. The angle eases onto a ledge. Climb a crack (one piece trad pro 0.25-0.5) with a few tricky moves to finish. (10 bolts, Trad pro 0.25-1.5 - rap ring anchor).

FA: Chris Jensen, Philip Stone, Hunter Lee 20 May, 2017


Support Route Development

Donations of bolts & hangers are very welcome to support the development of this very promising climbing area. A donation of $100 will buy 12 bolts + hangers and belay anchors, enough to equip one average route, but any contribution is appreciated.

Either use the PayPal button right or purchase your bolts from MEC and ship your donation of 3 inch 3/8" stainless steel wedge bolts and/or hangers to: Quadra Climbers c/o PO Box 280 Quathiaski Cove BC V0P 1N0

- Thanks, see you at the crags!


Ask the locals questions & find out what's new at Quadra Climbers FaceBook Group>

QUADRA ISLAND ROCK CLIMBING Guidebook available>

Mail order your copy today or ask for Quadra Island Rock Climbs published by Wild Isle at your local outdoor retailer or look for it on Quadra Island at Book Bonanza in Quathiaski Cove or at the Yak Shack in Heriot Bay.

 

Rock climbing on Chinese Mountains Quadra Island, BC
Photo: A Dream of Wild Onions, Sunset Slab.

Ask the locals questions and find out what's new at our
Quadra Climbers FaceBook Group>

QUADRA ISLAND ROCK CLIMBING Guidebook available>

Mail order your copy today or ask for Quadra Island Rock Climbs published by Wild Isle at your local outdoor retailer or look for it on Quadra Island at Book Bonanza in Quathiaski Cove or at the Yak Shack in Heriot Bay.


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