Rock Climbing around Quadra Island

Chinese Mountains Area

Chinese Mountains are a well-known Quadra Island landmark and the destination for one of the Island's more popular hiking trails. There are two peaks, the north and the south peak with trails up to the top of both. The network of hiking trails up and around Chinese Mountains and to nearby Morte Lake make getting to the crags a breeze and offer mountain biking and hiking as additional activities from the same parking lot (50° 8'29.76"N 125°15'28.38"W).

The bluffs at Chinese Mountains are scattered up the hillside below the south peak. Most of the rock is best reached from the west side trail except the upper, main crag which can be reached off the main trail that goes up to the pass between both peaks - more on that later. The walk to these crags is ridiculously short! Morte Lake is nearby and is basically part of this same climbing area.

The rock is a granitic basalt, it is mostly clean and well weathered. Some of the coarser weathered rock has numerous marble-sized quartz crystals giving a very grippy surface. Like the Vancouver Island basalt there are few cracks and natural protection so almost all the routes are bolt protected.

Highlights of climbing here include: the views over the southern peninsula of Quadra Island and the mountains on both sides; the mainland Coast Range mountains to the east and the peaks of Strathcona Park on Vancouver Island to the west, the pretty moss-covered ledges and the large, numerous soaring raptors, surviving veteran old-growth Douglas Fir and Lodgepole Pine trees.

Helmets should always be worn while climbing to protect from head injury in case of a fall but they are especially advised here as there are loose rocks hidden in the moss that are easily dislodged. This is a climbing area in progress - stay tuned for additional information and ongoing route development.

Moss carpets at the top and around the crags are very beautiful and have numerous wildflowers popping through but they can be slippery and are not well adhered to the underlying rock. Take extreme care moving around on the exposed ledges especially in wet conditions.

QUADRA ISLAND ROCK CLIMBING
Guidebook available>

Access: The Chinese Mountains trailhead is located toward the centre of Quadra Island north of Heriot Bay. From the ferry terminal in Quathiaski Cove drive north on West Road following signs for Heriot Bay. In the village of Heriot Bay turn left on Hyacinthe Bay Road or Cramer Road (which also joins Hyacinthe Bay Road) and continue north. Pass North Gowlland Harbour Road and down a steep hill. Pass the Walcan Road on the left where the trailhead for Morte Lake (which does join the Chinese Mountains trail) is located. Drive up the steep hill past the Eco-Centre and then watch for the turn-off to Chinese Mountains on the left before the top of the hill. It's about a 15 minute drive from the ferry.

From the Chinese Mountains trail parking lot are two trails.

Straight ahead is the most direct trail on a steep, old logging road that leads to a forested saddle between the North and South Peaks this is the quickest way to reach either peak and an optional route to the East Wall.

To the left is the west side (Beech's Mountain) trail that traverses a forested bench past most of the lower crags, then heads uphill to the top of the South Peak with a spur heading higher up to Beech's Mountain.

Please Support the Local Bolt Fund

Donations of bolts & hangers are very welcome to support the development of this very promising climbing area. A donation of $75 will buy 10 bolts + hangers and belay anchors, enough to equip one route, but any contribution is appreciated.

Either use the PayPal button right or purchase your bolts from MEC and ship your donation of 3 inch 3/8" stainless steel wedge bolts and/or hangers to: Quadra Climbers c/o PO Box 280 Quathiaski Cove BC V0P 1N0

- Thanks, see you at the crags!

Ask the locals questions and find out what's new at our Quadra Climbers FaceBook Group>

QUADRA ISLAND ROCK CLIMBING Guidebook available>

TRAILSIDE CRAG

Trailside Crag is the closest crag to the parking lot. Reach by hiking along the west side trail just 200m

The top can be reached by a short walk up to the right side of the crag up the mossy draw that also leads up to Manzanita and Leaning Tree. One bolted belay anchor.

CM CHAUNCEY MAPLES 5.8 22m **
From the toe of the prominent angled arête climb the lower steps on a block to the left. Pull onto a large ledge and then continue direct up the lefthand wall along the edge of the arête. (6 bolts, 2 pitons - 2 rappel rings anchor).

FA: Tak Ogasawara, Philip Stone, Chauncey McEachren 13 June, 2015

TC TRAILSIDE CRACK 5.6 20m ***
Follow the large steep crack up the corner. Trad pro 1-3.5" and an in-situ piton.

FA: Tak Ogasawara 9 May, 2015

TP TAKMAN’S PROW 5.7 20m **
Climb steep face with good holds and novel protection (6 pitons).

FA: Tak Ogasawara, Max Garner Tucker 25 June, 2015

MANZANITA WALL

Manzanita Wall is one of the closest crags to the parking lot. The wall is steep but not quite vertical with a mix of clean, smooth and well-weathered rock. The climbing is less strenuous than neighbouring Leaning Tree Edge. It’s a good choice for a warm up or a full session, with a variety of good quality, moderate routes.

To reach Manzanita Wall hike along the Beech’s Mountain trail just 150m from the parking lot until a well-trodden path can be seen heading uphill from the trail, up a draw of mossy boulders. Look through the trees to see the Great Wall high above. Hike up the draw following the path out on to the open mossy bluff. Traverse left out to the middle of the open, mossy meadow. Hike left (west) across mossy ledges into a cluster of trees and then up a small talus slope, still trending left (west) to the base of the crag.

The main crag face is a wide wall, split into two distinct halves, divided by a shallow corner/gully down the middle. The right half is higher than the left with more continuous lines. At around 30m high, caution is needed with rappels and top ropes using a 60m rope.

To the left (west) and right (east) of the main part of the crag are shorter wings, each with additional routes.

Reach the top on either the right or left side of the crag. On the right: two treed ledges run out to the anchors, the lower to the top of the east wing and the upper ledge to the top of the Main Wall. On the left: a short a steep scramble leads to the open mossy ledges at the top of the west wing.

The trail along the base of Manzanita Wall continues left (west) across a prominent forested draw connecting to Keystone Crag. Leaning Tree Edge, Black Crag and the Great Wall are above and to the right (east).

West Wing - a 15-20m wall at the far left end of the crag. From the centre of the crag follow the trail left and just before it drops into the forested draw hike up behind large old-growth firs over a band of easy ledges to the base of a long, low-hanging, square-cut roof with a very large salmon-berry bush growing under it.

DD DEERFLY DIRECT 5.8 15m *
At the extreme left (west) side of the whole crag. A gritstoney line. Start up an edgy wall to shattered but intact blocks. Step over the roof and alcove to get onto an inverted pinnacle. Keep to the right edge of the delicate wall using the arête as needed. Tricky finish to big ledge. (6 bolts - rappel rings)

FA: Mick Bromley, Philip Stone 21 July, 2014

Main Wall - the central, highest part of the crag. The main wall is divided by a shallow gully-like scoop. The left side has a wide, but exposed belay ledge that runs all the way from DEERFLY DIRECT to the base of BATMANZ MIDDAY FLIGHT. Care is needed on the ledge, the smooth rock can be very slick.

The base of the climbs to the right of the gully are easily reached just above the central staging area.

TK TAKTITION 5.8R- 20m *
At the left edge of the main wall. Start up the wall right of a shallow right-facing corner to a ledge. Continue direct up a left-trending ramp toward a second right-facing corner and climb the right wall directly up hollow flakes. (9 bolts - Rappel Rings)

FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 9 May, 2015

M MANZPLAINATION 5.9 24m **
The central line on the left side of the wall. Scramble up to the left end of the belay ledge (bottom anchor). Climb direct to a small, slabby scoop (5.7). Care on the smooth rock on the slab and then continue up the upper wall (5.9) super fun finish pulling good holds over an overlap and a steep headwall to the belay ledge. (9 bolts - rap ring anchor)

FA: Philip Stone, Mick Bromley 21 July, 2014

MB MANZ BEST FRIEND 5.8 24m *
Scramble up to the right edge of the belay ledge below the central corner of SHEEP THRILLS (bottom anchor shared with BATMANZ). Start up the first short wall trending left to a ledge (5.8). Follow a low-angle apron left across the lower part of the gully. Then climb direct to the left of the gully on steepening rock. Pull over a small bulge into a steep, shallow corner (5.8) to finish onto a very small belay ledge. (11 bolts - rappel ring anchor)

FA: Bill Phipps, Philip Stone 17 July, 2014

ST SHEEP THRILLS 5.8 26m *
Takes the corner-scoop direct. Clip the first five bolts on MANZ BEST FRIEND before scratching for manky Trad Pro in the crappy gully. (5 bolts - TRAD to 1.75” - rappel ring anchor)

BF BATMANZ MIDDAY FLIGHT 5.8 26m **
Scramble up to the right edge of the ledge below the wall (bottom anchor). Climb the steep face direct from anchor with one thin sequence (5.10a) to a rest. Continue direct over hollow flakes on finicky holds (5.6) Trend right up the last steep headwall (5.9) to a fun, exposed finish. (10 bolts - 2 rappel rings anchor)

FA: Philip Stone, Bill Phipps 17 July, 2014

CV CIRCLING VULTURES 5.10b 27m ***
Excellent route, sustained interest and a fun finish! Start up the slightly overhanging lower wall on clean, smooth grey rock. Consider stick clipping the first bolt. Make an awkward, off-balance move (5.9) to get up on the large foot ledges and clip the second bolt. Easy moves onto the big ledge. Climb direct up the steep wall on positive holds (5.8) to the base of a leftward angled crack (!!! Trad Pro !!!). Follow the crack over a small bulge (5.9) as it trends left. Leave the top of the crack up the steep wall (5.10a) to a narrow but in-balance rest ledge. Continue straight up on thin holds (5.10c) to a superbly delicate finish. (Mixed: 8 bolts + trad pro).

FA: Heidi Mulbacher, Andrew Findlay 21 July, 2014

BP BIRDS OF PREY 5.7 27m ***
Fun route, great value for the grade. Starts on the right side of the main wall. Begin up the short lower block on the brown rock to the ledge (5.7) (take care with loose rock on the ledge). Climb up the steep wall above the ledge on positive holds and generous bolt protection (5.7). Make a committing step right to gain an angled ramp and arête. Follow the ramp leftward (5.5) with increasing exposure & stunning views on good rock and big holds. (10 bolts - Rappel Ring).

FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 19 May, 2014

East Wing - to the right of the main, central part of the crag is a shorter steep wall broken by a ledge at 10m. The base is easily reached on the wide ledge below the wall. Top anchors are reached from a narrow ledge on the right.

ML MANZLAUGHTER 5.9 15m **
Found at the very far right (east) end of the crag. The most continuous line on this part of Manzanita. Climb a steep, narrow rib (5.8) on surprisingly generous holds to a horizontal break. Pull up the bulging wall above finding more good holds (5.9). Cross a ledge at its thinnest point and continue direct up a prow. A few exposed moves (5.8) to the belay ledge. (7 bolts - Rappel Rings)
FA: Philip Stone, Mick Bromley 21 July, 2014

EM EMANZIPATION 5.10 15m *
A strenuous start up clean reddish rock leads to an overlap and easier climbing up to the angled ledge/break. Cross the ledge direct and climb the nice face up to the anchor. (Top Rope - bolted anchor)

OPEN PROJECT

LOWER EAST SIDE

Lower East Side is a band of short bouldering-height crags to climber's right of Manzanita Wall along the same band of cliffs, below and right of Leaning Tree Edge. Follow the approach details for Manzanita & Leaning Tree, hiking uphill from the west side trail 150m from the parking lot up the open mossy bluff. At the top of the main mossy bluff the route enters some tall trees below Leaning Tree, head right across the slope to find a cluster of short cliffs above a series of talus slopes.

LEANING TREE EDGE

Leaning Tree Edge is a steep, clean crag hidden behind a stand of old growth Douglas Fir trees, growing close, two even lean right against the upper edge of the rock. Reach the base by hiking up from the west side trail 150m west of the parking lot up an open, mossy bluff passing Manzanita Wall which is to the left (west). The open bluff ends at a small talus slope at the bottom of Leaning Tree Wall and a narrow, forested draw runs up higher along the left side of the crag past the top of Manzanita Wall.

Several steep top rope problems from eight bolted belay anchors (rappel rings on Flash Forward and Flash in the Pan). Access the top ledge up a steep gully on climber's left of the crag. A ledge half way up the gully leads out to the right onto the anchor ledge. Continue up the gully to a large, ledge at the very top of the crag.

The steeper gully at climber's right of the crag from the base of Flash in the Pan can also be used to reach the top - good for getting to the righthand side anchors.

There is some loose talus at the top of the climber's right side of the crag, be careful with footing and dislodging missiles.

BC BALL AND CHAIN 5.11b 17m **
The steep, clean grey line at the very lefthand side of the crag. Start up steep face to a left-angled ramp. Follow the ramp up left and then leave it climbing direct up over-vertical face to finish (7 bolts).
FA: JJ Wytrwal, Anthonie PrihatiningJati 22 August, 2014

FB FLASH BACK 5.10c 20m **
Takes a line to the right of the righthand of the leaning trees. Great sustained climbing on positive holds with a strenuous mid-section. Start behind the leaning tree up steep, clean grey rock to the left of a boulder-pinnacle to a thin crack in a left facing corner on a semi-detached (but solid) block. Climb over the block into a shallow corner on good holds to mantle onto a narrow black ledge halfway up. Step left on the ledge and then continue direct alongside the tree up a steep, grinding wall. Pull onto a rest ledge and then a few easier moves to finish (8 bolts).

FA: Anthonie PrihatiningJati, Philip Stone 6 May, 2014

LP LOUISIANA PURCHASE 5.11b 20m **
Climb direct from the right side of the detached pinnacle at the base, up thin face to a rest ledge. Continue the dark arête stepping onto the steep grey face to finish over the small roof on the right. (7 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Alexandra le Trionneire, Alexis Crellin 25 May, 2015

FF FLASH FORWARD 5.10a 25m ***
Fantastic climbing, one of the best quality routes at Chinese Mountains. Start up the patch of steep, clean grey rock 4m right of the boulder-pinnacle, finding hero holds right from the get-go. Climb direct up ridiculously incut horizontal slot jugs to a rest and then up to a vertical column of shattered light-coloured rock. Trend left back onto the coarser dark rock into the base of a steep, shallow right-facing corner. Whine about the thin holds and then climb the corner stepping out left at the top to better holds to finish. (9 bolts - rap rings).

FA: Philip Stone 6 May, 2014

MK MOOSE KNUCKLE 5.10c 26m **
A testing start up the steep lower wall leads to a steady, direct grind on more positive holds. Pull over a small roof following the bolt line slightly left to the anchor. (7 bolts - rap ring anchor)

FA: Megan O’Brien 25 May, 2015

FO FLASH FLOOD 5.10b 26m ***
Another excellent Leaning Tree route! Takes a line on the righthand side of the crag about 8m right of the boulder-pinnacle. Start up the steep lower wall with some tricky bouldery moves. Continue direct following the slightly easier climbing through the mid-section of the route on the lighter coloured rock to the left of the bolts. Save some grip for the, now familiar, strenuous Leaning Tree finish. (9 bolts rap ring anchor).
FA: Philip Stone, Nic Manders 24 May, 2014

FD FLASH DANCE 5.10b 26m ***
One of the steeper lines on an already gruelling wall. Start at the far right end of the base ledge juts a couple of metres from the bottom of the dusty gully. Climb direct up the lower grey wall to a ledge below a small roof. Pull over the roof direct (10b) and up to a bit of a rest. Climb onto a slight bulging prow and follow it direct to finish in a shallow groove. (10 bolts - rap ring anchor).

FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 1 April 2016

FP FLASH IN THE PAN 5.10a 26m ***
Superb, strenuous climb. Start on the far right side of the main ledge at the base of the crag, just before the bottom of the right-side gully. Climb direct up steep grey wall to big horizontal break then pass the overlap trending slightly right then direct for the obligatory arm-destroying Leaning Tree finish. (11 bolts - rap rings)

FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 11 July, 2014

FL FLASH LITE 5.10a 30m or 18m **
Two options to start: either scramble up the dusty gully at the right end if the crag, about 10m, to a narrow but decent belay ledge (1 bolt bottom anchor), or start at the base of the gully as for FP and climb up to the roof and then follow the bolt line on a right-trending angle to join the direct start at teh second bolt. Climb direct line with numerous wedge angle pinch holds then better horizontal incuts. Finish up awkward V-corner on thin holds to reach jugs to top out. (6 bolts or 10 bolts - rap chain)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 11 July, 2014

BLACK CRAG

This small outcrop is easy to overlook but has a collection of quality moderate-routes well worth checking out. The rock is well-weathered, coarse, solid and provides highly-enjoyable climbing. Combined with nearby Xiǎo Crag it makes a good introductory destination although it’s best for smaller groups as room at the base is limited. The high trees surrounding the crag provide some welcome shade at the base on hotter summer days.

ACCESS: Black Crag is conveniently located just above and left of Leaning Tree Edge with Manzanita Wall also nearby to the west. The crag overlooks the forested draw that continues up to the base of The Great Wall complex so it can be easily included in a day out at several adjacent crags.
Follow the approach details as for Leaning Tree Edge from the Beech’s Mountain Trail. Where the path breaks off rightward to the base of Leaning Tree just continue 30m up the forested draw to the base of the obvious black rock face of Black Crag. The top can be reached on either the left or right side of the crag.

MX MALCOM X 5.9 23m **
A great climb, strenuous at times on fun rock. Start at the left end of the base ledge. Scramble up a shallow-angled right-trending ramp to a small grassy ledge. Start up an over-vertical wall on good holds. Climb direct over rounded features to an interesting flake. Strenuous moves (5.9) passing the flake and bulge to a rest ledge. Continue direct up the last pony wall to the anchor shared with BH.
(6 bolts, 1 piton - rappel ring anchor).
Route Setter: Tak Ogasawara

BH BLACK HUMP 5.8 25m **
Follows the left side of the prominent rounded-prow at the centre of the crag. Enjoyable climbing on excellent rock. Start up a left-angled ramp to a small grassy ledge. Traverse right along a narrow, horizontal foot ledge to gain the face. Climb direct on small but positive holds. Mantel on to a ledge then continue direct up a shallow corner to the anchor. (6 bolts, 1 piton - rappel ring anchor)

FA: Tak Ogasawara 3 October, 2015

BW BLACK WIDOW 5.8 25m **
A high quality route up the right side of the central prow. Start up the over-vertical wall of grey rock on massive, positive holds (first bolt may be obscured from below). Pull up onto a ledge. Alternatively (and at the cost of one star) traverse in from the right to the second bolt. Climb direct up steep face on superb rock making a tricky move on to a ledge. Continue direct up a steep wall solving a fun 5.8 challenge to reach a wide, sloping ledge. Continue up an short low-angle slab to the anchor shared with BM.
(8 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 11 March, 2020

BM BLACK MAGIC 5.8 20m *
Generally good climbing with a perplexing crux. Start at the right end of the base ledge where the access gully to the Leaning Tree anchors heads off to the right. Climb steep rock for a few moves then step left onto a lower angle face. Continue up to a narrow ledge. Make a tricky series of moves (5.8+) relying on the superb friction for feet up an incipient crack. Easier climbing up to the shared anchor. (1 bolt, 3 pitons - bolt anchor).

FA: Tak Ogasawara 3 October, 2015

South Peak

The South Peak has a complex of steep walls broken by ledges into several rock tiers wrapping around the east, south and west side of the peak, below the popular hikers lookout.

Access the base of the cliff by hiking the main trail and taking the South Peak fork. At the bridge over the small creek leave the trail and traverse hard left across the hillside and up slightly to the base of the East Wall.

Alternatively hike up the open bluff off the west side trail to Leaning Tree Edge. A forested draw runs up between Leaning Tree and the top of Manzanita. Follow the draw to the base of the Great Wall. A system of wide ledges wrap under the cliff to Jumping Frog and the East Wall.

LOTUS LAND

LOTUS LAND
Locate Lotus Land ~100m to the left from the start of Silk Road. Behind the first huge, leaning Douglas Fir Tree find an angled ramp leading up rightwards to a wide, grassy base ledge. The ledge runs ~75m to the left and ~25m to the right where it butts into Staircase to Heaven.

Routes are described from right to left as you encounter them along the base ledge. The first route starts immediately above the point that the access path joins the sloping grassy ledge at the base of the crag.

BR BROWNSTONE RIB 5.6+ 18m *
The obvious, continuous rib of brown rock above the small pine tree where the access path meets the base ledge. Climb the rib directly on great rock with a few fun moves. Easy finish. (7 bolts - rappel ring anchor). (6 bolts - rap ring anchor)..

FA: Philip Stone, Nick Sinclair 18 June, 2018

S SHAGHIGH 5.7 24m **
The longest of the pitches at Lotus Land with two distinct and contrasting parts. Start directly above a small pine tree. Scramble up a short open-book corner to a ledge. Channel inner calm to carefully negotiate the detached blocks and pull over stepped roofs to gain a series of vertical cracks (5.7). Follow the cracks to a wide ledge and then cruise up the low-angle face above on excellent rock to the anchor. (3 bolts, + Trad .2 - 1 - rap ring anchor)..
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 7 May, 2020

The next two climbs are just left of a small fir tree that is ~20m left of the point the access ramp reaches the base ledge.

LF LOTUS FLOWER POWER 5.7 18m **
Climb a short slab apron to an overlap. Pass a small lodgepole pine tree up steep face into a ledge alcove. Move right onto the prow of an arête to finish. (6 bolts - rap ring anchor)..
FA: Keenan Nowak, Philip Stone 25 June, 2017

FC FIRECRACKER 5.8 18m **
Starts at a low point of this part of the wall ~12m left of the small fir tree up a prominent series of low-angled rock ramps to an overlap. Pull over the small roof and follow shallow cracks up the face to the belay ledge. (7 bolts - rap ring anchor).

FA: Philip Stone, Keenan Nowak 25 June, 2017

Continue left (west) along the open base ledge as it angles up to a ramp. The next climb is at the top of the ramp where the base ledge ramp starts to level out again.

LP MEDITATION ON THE LOTUS PETAL 5.9 15m *
Located left of Firecraker at the point where the base ledge narrows and angles up in a ramp toward Chockstone Corner. Climb a series of ribs and flutes on quality, black-coloured rock.
(3 bolts, 1 piton- rappel ring anchor).

FA: Scott Mitrenga, Tak Ogasawara 2 August, 2018

To reach the next group of climbs, follow the base ledge left and up, as it rises and narrows. At ~50m there is an exposed notched-gap in the ledge. Squeeze under the roof and pass the notch (easy class 3) using a secure hand-line, the first three climbs are on a clean face of brown rock undercut by a deep, low roof.

CC CHOCKSTONE CORNER 5.7 18m ***
Climbs the obvious right-facing corner. Clip the first bolt of MS and then continue direct in the corner. Bring a 120cm sling to wrap around the chockstone. Continue up the corner pulling an overlap and up nice face to finish (2 bolts, Trad 0.25” - 2” - rap ring anchor).

FA: Philip Stone, Keenan Nowak 25 June, 2017

MS A MIDSUMMER'S NIGHT DREAM 5.8 17m **
Just up from the notch in the base ledge is a dog-leg in the ledge and a prominent open-book corner in the face above (single bolt bottom-anchor). Climb in the corner for 4m and at the 2nd bolt step out left making a tricky move (5.8) onto an exposed arête. Follow the arête up to the shared anchor with JG. (7 bolts - rap ring anchor).
FA: Philip Stone, Tak Ogasawara, Keenan Nowak 24 June, 2017

JG JADE GATE 5.7 16m *
Starts on the left end of the base ledge (single bolt bottom-anchor). Pull through a V-slot in the roof to gain a wide crack. Step right onto the clean face and then follow the bolt line direct to the anchor. (6 bolts - rap ring anchor).
FA: Philip Stone, Keenan Nowak 24 June, 2017

The furthest left (west) of the routes starts down on the same forested bench as Staircase to Heaven about 50m past the point where the access path leads up to the base of the rest of the Lotus Land climbs.

TJ TRIPLE JUMP 5.7 45m *
A long line at the left end of Lotus Land.
1) (Hop) 5.3 30m 1 bolt + couple of medium nuts for protection.
2) (Step) 8m 5.7 1 bolt and one piton very clean and dry.
3) (Jump) 8m 5.7 A very nice crack from bottom to top clean and dry. Good trad protection.
Route Setter: Tak Ogasawara October 2019

THE GREAT WALL

The Great Wall is a complex of steep rock divided by ledges and breaks, wrapping around the south & west side of South Chinese Mountain below the popular hikers’ trail lookout. The exposure and views from the climbs here are spectacular. It has some of the longest and most scenic climbing routes on Quadra.

Access: The Great Wall is reached via the same paths as Leaning Tree Edge. Follow the Beech’s Mountain trail and after just 150m take the climbers’ path uphill to an open, mossy meadow, The Great Wall can be seen high above the trees. Continue up the mossy ledges into the trees. Pass Leaning Tree Edge which is to the right and up the steep forest past the base of Black Crag. The start of ‘SILK ROAD’, at the lowest point of the wall, is the best landmark. A wide mossy ramp heads up to the right giving access to Xiǎo Crag and the base of Jumping Frog Wall. Behind is a nice lookout on a mossy ledge above Manzanita Wall, perfect for gearing up and hanging out.

The top can be reached by either a long hike around to the left or a steeper, more direct 3rd class gully to the right of Jumping Frog Wall (see photo topo above). Take care with descents on this high 50m wall.

SH STAIRCASE TO HEAVEN 5.5 55m *
The leftmost line, a nice moderate route up the full height of the Great Wall. Decent climbing on mostly good rock.
Starts up low-angle face on a slightly right-trending ramp up to a ledge. Climb direct up stepped rock to gain a short left-facing corner. Pull up the corner (5.5) and onto a rib which is followed to the anchor. (5 bolts, Trad to 2” - rap ring anchor) Descend by scrambling up 4th class ledges and walk off left, or 2 rappels using the XANADU mid station.

FA: Tak Ogasawara, Keenan Nowak 24 June, 2017

X XANADU 5.8 60m **
Showcases some of the best of the Quadra andesite on a long and scenically spectacular route. Solid rock and lots of fun climbing with short difficulties interspersed with lots of cruisey terrain. The trad protection is as typical for coastal basalts: occassional bomber placements with some runouts while climbing on superb holds.
1) 5.7 30m. Scramble up easy steps to a low angle slab. Climb the slab as it trends left and then direct up a ramp into a corner. Work up the corner (5.7) to reach an easier rib. Follow thr rib and where it butts into an over-vertical wall make an exposed step left into another corner. Climb this corner to a nice ledge and belay. (Trad single rack - piton & ring anchor)
2) 5.8 30m. Leave the belay to the right and pull into a steep corner crack (5.8). Climb the crack and continue up another crack. Open ribs and short walls up to the shared anchor with SH (Trad single rack - rappel ring anchor)
Descend by scrambling up to the South Peak lookout and walk off left via the Lotus Land anchor access path or make 2x 30m rappels.
Route Setter: Philip Stone 2020

OE ORIENT EXPRESS 5.10a 50m **
A sweet, direct line on good rock. Start up a shallow, prominently curved scoop ~6m left of the lowest point of the wall.
P1 - Climb up the scoop and then trend right on a ramp to avoid a roof. Mantle onto a ledge and head left. Pull up an overlap on to face of rounded blocks. Steep moves (10a) up a shallow corner to belay. 30m (10 bolts - rap ring anchor)
P2 - Head direct up steep, shallow corners to a mantle & ledge. Deek right & up a small arête to clip the perfectly placed last bolt then return down to tackle the steep crack direct (10a) to a strenuous finish. 20m (4 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Hunter Lee, Philip Stone, Tak Ogasawara 7 May, 2017

SR SILK ROAD 5.10c 50m ***
An excellent climb up an exposed wall with spectacular views and remarkably good rock especially in the upper part.
P1 - 4th class steps then up easy face to a band of black rock. Step left and up to a small ledge. Continue direct up clean, grey rock to the base of a bulge. Pull up over the overlaps and make a delicate rock-over rightward (10b) into a corner. Climb the corner and prow finishing with a bellyflop onto a sloping ledge and the anchor. 30m (13 bolts - rap ring anchor)
P2 - Leave the belay to the left with thin moves (10c) on a clean face. Climb direct up a steep, narrowing prow on great rock to the anchor. 20m (5 bolts - rap ring anchor). Descend with 2 rappels or scramble up ~25m 4th class then walk off left.
FA: Allan Ramsay, Philip Stone 9 May, 2017

D DYNASTY 5.11- 50m ***
P1 25m 11b -Start as SR & go right at 3rd bolt to a bulging roof. Pull over the roof (11b) into a corner. Move right out of the corner on to a well-defined arête. Follow the beautifully exposed arête to the belay ledge 28m (12 bolts - rap ring anchor).
P2 25m 10a - From the belay pull up over a small roof carefully using small detached blocks. Head direct up the incredible, steep face on perfect holds (10a) to a crack. Climb the crack (1 small 0.25”-0.75” cam useful) to the anchor. Descend with 2 rappels or scramble up ~25m 4th class toward the lookout and then walk off left. 22m (6 or 8 bolts)
FA Pitch 1: Allan Ramsay, Kamila Calko 17 April, 2018
Pitch 2: Allan Ramsay, Philip Stone 9 May, 2017

The next two routes share a start on a small mossy terrace up the access ramp to Jumping Frog Wall ~15m right of the start of SILK ROAD.

M MEANDARIN 5.10+ 75m **
Start up ledges to gain a rib of black rock. Follow the rib up (5.6). Toward the upper headwall move left up a short slab to an optional belay at a nice mossy ledge. Climb left on rounded blocks. Keep traversing left to gain parallel cracks in a steep, shallow groove. Follow the cracks up the steep wall (10+) to the anchor ledge. (6 bolts - rappel ring anchor).
Route Setter: Philip Stone

TS TAISHAN 5.9 85m **
A fun adventure wandering up the full height of the Great Wall. Lots of enjoyable climbing on fantastic rock in great situations. First half sport, second half mostly trad-protection. Start at a small, mossy terrace ~15m right of the SILK ROAD buttress toe.
P1 25m 5.8 - Scramble up some easy ledges to gain a rib of black rock. Follow the rib (5.6) and slab as it butts into the steeper upper wall. Fun moves on excellent rock and generous holds up a steep face (5.8). Climb the right edge of the wall to the anchor. (7 bolts - rappel ring anchor).
P2 15m 5.6 - From the belay pop up onto the mossy ledge and walk left. Scramble up a short rock step (5.6) leftward to the belay anchor for Meandarin (1 bolt - rappel ring anchor). Consider running pitch 1 & 2 together.
P3 - 20m 5.9 - From the belay head left. Just to the right of the DYNASTY mid-anchor head up a short arête on a smooth, black wall to a wide ledge below a roof. Move into the corner and pull over the roof to gain a steep crack (5.9). Continue up the corner then easier climbing up blocky terrain, trending right to an anchor. (4 bolts + Trad .25 to 3 - rappel ring anchor)
P4 - 25m 5.8 - Climb direct from the belay up a narrow rib of beautiful rock (2 bolts - 5.7). Cross a mossy ledge and step right at the base of the upper wall. Climb the short wall (5.8) finding better protection (small wires/cams) to the right of an open-book corner/pea-pod feature. Finish at the anchor at teh top of this wall. (2 bolts +Trad .25-.5 - Rappel ring anchor)
Descend by heading up easy ledges to the South Peak Lookout and Trail and walk off left to the Lotus Land anchor access path (unmarked). Alternatively make 3 rappels, taking particular care to knot rope ends on the long 30m raps. With care the descent can be completed with 2 rappels trending to climber's right via the SPRINGBOARD mid-station to the Jumping Frog Wall base ledge.
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 15 May, 2020

Reach the next start by climbing pitch 1 of TAISHAN or traversing in directly from the base of Jumping Frog Wall.

T TYPHOON 5.10+ TBC 22m **
A superb, direct pitch up the upper wall. Start by climbing P1 of THAISHAN or traversing in from the base of Jumping Frog Wall.
From the middle of the curved mossy mid-ledge, at, or just above the belay anchor for P1 of THAISHAN climb a shallow corner and cracks up a steep wall of black rock to a ledge. Continue direct pulling over a small roof on the steep, white rock into a rectangular slot. Work up the slot to a small roof and pull up onto the steep face above. Climb the face up the flawless rock keeping well clear of the death blocks in the corner. Move right, above the death blocks to a wide belay ledge.
(9 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
Additional pitches can be climbed either by heading left from the anchor 3m to join TAISHAN or move to the next anchor 6m to the right and finish up SPRINGBOARD.
Route Setter: Philip Stone 2020

NY NYMPH 5.7 15m *
Takes a narrow rib of clean rock starting left of the top of Xiao Crag and below the base of Jumping Frog. A good early lead. Scramble up a short step to a grassy ledge. Step left to the base of the defined rib and climb direct with a few steep moves toward the top. (6 bolts - rap ring anchor) Optional walk off right.
FA: Christine Reddick, Philip Stone 20 May, 2017

AB AMPHIBIOUS BASALT 5.? 15m
Open Project - Incomplete

JUMPING FROG WALL

Jumping Frog Wall is a tier at the right of The Great Wall. It can be identified by the large pine-tree and snag on the base ledge. The rock is excellent, it is steep with interesting character, great holds and a notably weathered texture. It is prone to winter seeping which helps keep it very clean. Routes are sporty & strenuous with similar high quality to nearby Leaning Tree. The position overlooking the forest and ocean below is spectacular and it’s easy to see why this was the first crag to be developed at Chinese Mountains.

ACCESS: Follow the approach path for Leaning Tree Edge and The Great Wall. Either of the ledge ramps heading right from the draw at Black Crag head up toward Jumping Frog. The most obvious is the wide ramp heading right from the start of SILK ROAD.
It is possible, but time-consuming, to reach the top anchors by making two x30m rappels down from the hikers’ lookout at the top of the South Chinese Mountain. Locate the first station 10m down the mossy ledges from the lookout. The second station can also be reached by traversing in on a ledge from the right, or by climbing AMPHIBIAN.

SB SPRINGBOARD 5.9 45m **
A fun line that spans the gap between Jumping Frog Wall and The Great Wall.
1) 5.9 25m. Start at the far left side of the Jumping Frog Wall base ledge, below the obvious overhang and chimney dividing the wall from The Great Wall proper. Start up the easy lower wall onto a ledge. Climb a steep, narrow rib under the roof. Locate the crucial overhead undercling and pull over a group of large detached blocks (8+) stepping left to a rest on the improbable springboard. Step up and then left crossing the chimney to gain the steep rib on its left edge. Continue direct up superb rock to a nice belay ledge. (11 bolts, Trad to 1.5” - rappel ring anchor)
2) 5.8 20m. Climb direct from the anchor up a slab trending rightward toward the gully and then keep to the cleaner rock to its left to a narrow ledge. Finish up a fun crack splitting the final headwall to anchor at the edge of a nice treed ledge. Descend in 2x 25m rappels or scramble up to the South Chinese Mountains Peak lookout and walk off. (3 bolts, Trad to 3” - rappel ring anchor).
FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 3 July, 2018

A AMPHIBIAN 5.9 36m **
P1 - Start at the left side of the wall. Steep moves up to a roof. Pull the roof then head left to gain a sweet crack. Follow the crack to anchor. 24m (8 bolts - rap ring anchor)
P2 - Original Finish - Easy climbing (5.4) trending right to the anchor 12m (4 bolts - rap ring anchor). Can rap to all other anchors.
FA: Allan Ramsay, Philip Stone 9 May, 2017

2) 5.6 30m. From the small belay ledge head up and left over easy steps to the base of a shallow, steep, open-book corner. Climb the corner favouring the left wall. Gain a shallow but defined arête and follow that direct. Cross a small ledge to a last short step up the continuation of the rib. Good rock, great exposure. Take care rappelling with a 60m rope. This pitch is exactly 30m - ensure rope ends are knotted. (11 bolts - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Philip Stone, Nic Manders 12 November, 2018

C CHANTRELLE 5.9 20m *
Start by the pine snag up the first wall to the angled-ramp. Pull up over a small roof to face. Follow a blocky rib finishing up a steep prow to the anchor. (6 bolts)

FA: Anthonie PrihatiningJati 2009

R REDNECK 5.8 20m
Start 2m right of pine snag. Climb up lower wall to the angled-ramp. Climb up low angle blocks into grey/white alcove. Steep moves to small triangular roof into a narrow corner. Easier climbing up a blocky rib to the anchor.
Route Setter: Anthonie PrihatiningJati 2009

H HIPPIE 5.9 *** 20m
A strenuous climb on steep, solid rock with beautifully positive holds. Start below the obvious large white/grey alcove. Climb the first short steep step to the angled ledge. Continue direct to a ledge at the base of the alcove. Head right up a narrow rib to a small but imposing roof. Pull over the roof and climb direct up a series of cracks.
(8 bolts - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 12 November, 2018 Route Setter: Anthonie PrihatiningJati 2009

WG A WISH GRANTED 5.10c 20m ***
The first bolted sport-route at Chinese Mountains on great rock with interesting character. Start behind the pine tree to the diagonal ledge. Gain a rib and face to a small alcove. Climb face to a small bulge. Pull over the bulge to two very shallow, stepped, left-facing corners. (5 bolts).
FA: Anthonie PrihatiningJati 17 July, 2009

KR KRAKEN RUM 5.10c 22m ***
Superb climb, one of the best in the area on excellent rock. Start at the far right edge of the wall up a clean, smooth wall. Climb into a shallow right-facing corner. Step left out of the corner over a small roof. Keep to the prow over a second overlap then up easier face on an arête finishing on the right side of the arête. (7 bolts).
FA: Anthonie PrihatiningJati 17 July, 2009

N NEWT 5.7 28m *
Climbs the heavily cracked rock on the recessed face at the right side of the wall. Start up a steep face to a ledge. Step right to a blocky, crack and corner system. Fun, steep, sustained climbing with a few strenuous moves on bomber holds. A great finish. Bring 2 or 3 cams for the nice crack. Has a bit of an ‘alpine feel’, with bolts! (6 bolts, Trad 0.25-2 - rap ring anchor)

FA: Chris Jensen, Hunter Lee, Philip Stone, Christine Reddick 20 May, 2017

XIAO CRAG

Xiǎo Crag (pron. ‘shee ow’, meaning ‘small’) is a small outcrop of nice, clean rock between the ledges directly above the top of Black Crag and below the base of Jumping Frog. There are clusters of gnarled Douglas Fir trees at the base and at the top and great atmosphere with The Great Wall looming overhead. The height and character of the crag is perfect for young and novice climbers but some care is needed at the base ledge. The top anchors can be reached via ramps on climbers’ left or right.

CS CHOP SUEY 5.8 7m
Avoid the steep step at the base and climb the left side of the crag.
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 23 June, 2017

W WONTON 5.9 8m *
A short but fun line up the nice face in the centre of the crag.
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 23 June, 2017

FC FORTUNE COOKIE 5.8 8m **
Takes the lower angled apron at the right side of the crag.

FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 23 June, 2017

TAO CRAG

Tao Crag (pron. ‘dow’) is a south-facing tier of the Great Wall complex between Jumping Frog and the East Wall. The face is fairly clean with some steep rock in the lower-half easing in angle toward the mid-ledge. A ledge at half height, divides the crag and can be used to access the mid-anchors. The base area is spacious, the location, away from the busier crags, accessible anchors and overall layout makes Tao and neighbouring Xiǎo crags suited for instructional groups. It is set up for top roping with one route set for leading in two short pitches - a good choice for learning multi-pitch technique with little commitment.

ACCESS: Follow the approach for Black Crag up the forested draw and take either the left or right access paths to the top of Black Crag. Continue up ledges past the base of Xiǎo Crag to the open mossy meadow below Tao Crag. Can also be reached from The Great Wall base ramp over the top of Xiǎo Crag then down.

The mid-way ledge & anchors can be reached by following the path up to the base of Jumping Frog and cutting out right on the first obvious ledge. The very-top anchors are reached by the narrower second ledges that crosses the face to the right of Jumping Frog Wall and then up stepped ledges (see Great Wall photo topo)

CH CHI 5.9 (TBC) 17m *
Climb the narrow, steep tapered rib of dark rock to the right of the white rock at the left side of the crag, direct to a ledge. Continue direct up face above to the anchor on the mid-way ledge (bolted anchor) No lead bolts ATTP

Settter: Philip Stone

The next two climbs have two pitches. The upper pitches are easily mixed with the lower lines.

YN YIN 5.9 (TBC) 25m *
1) 5.9 13m. Start just right of CH climbing a steep corner to a ledge. Continue direct up face to the belay. (4 bolts - rap ring anchor)
2) 5.6 12m Follow right-trending cracks and slabby-flakes. Walk-off left or rappel descent (4 bolts - rap ring anchor)

Settter: Philip Stone

YG YANG 5.9 26m **
1) 5.8 14m. Start up the front of the cube-shaped block. Climb a short, steep wall onto the flat ledge at the top of the cube. Climb the short corner off the cube and then direct up the face to the anchor. (5 bolts - rap ring anchor)
2) 5.9 12m. Cross the mossy ledge and climb the nice face of clean, dark rock on either side of the bolt line to a steep step and then easier ground to the anchor. ( 5 bolts - rap ring anchor)

FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 28 May, 2017

ZD ZEND IT 5.9 (TBC) 16m *
Start in the corner to the right of the big cube block. Climb the corner on the steep face of white rock to the right. Pass a diagonal break and continue direct up the face above to the anchor. (bolted anchor)

Settter: Philip Stone

FS FENG SHUI 5.9 16m *
At the far right side of the base ledge the wall juts out into a steep prow of black rock. This climb climbs the prow direct, a few strenuous moves up the narrow arête leads to easier climbing past a series of blocky ledges. (7 bolts - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Philip Stone, Nic Manders 3 July, 2018

EAST WALL

The East Wall is located below the Chinese South Mountain lookout. The rock here is some of the best in the area, steep and very clean. The atmosphere and views over Hyacinthe Bay are spectacular. The east aspect is handy for its early morning sun or cooler afternoon shade. Take care with rappels on this 30m wall. This wall has the best undeveloped route potential in the area with much of it hidden in the trees to the right.

Access: The base of the wall is easy to reach off the main Chinese South Mountain trail. From the parking lot follow the main trail 15-20 mins to the junction for Chinese South Mountain. Head left toward the South Peak and cross a bridge. Leave the trail heading left, on the climbers’ path just above the creek. The path angles uphill to the bottom of the East Wall. The base trail continues leftward from the forest out onto an open mossy ledge that narrows to a dead-end at a fir tree and prominent arête on the wall.
The East Wall can also be reached from the Beech’s Mountain trail via the path to the top of Leaning Tree Wall or Black Crag and then right (east) along treed ledges below Jumping Frog and the Great Wall.

The top can be reached by either the hiking trail up to the lookout and then down ledges to the top of the crag, or by a steep, right-trending ramp/gully at the climbers’ right end of the crag then cut left along the top.

There is a rappel anchor at the base ledge ( below the start of DE) that can be used to descend down to ledges and the path that links to the Great Wall & Leaning Tree. If you already have the rope out, a quick rap can save some hiking to reach these crags.

PP PANORAMA PROW 5.10a * 23m
Follow the base ledge all the way left following a hand-line down a few exposed steps to a bolted anchor. Start climbing up blocky steps trending left into a steep corner. Climb the corner (10a) with surprisingly challenging moves to mantle onto a ledge. Follow the left side of a narrow prow with easier climbing to the anchor. (8 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Chris Jensen, Philip Stone, Hunter Lee 20 May, 2017

S SOLSTICE 5.8 ** 23m
A fun climb with great exposure. Start just 2m left of the same bolted anchor as PP near the end of the base ledge. Pull up a steep step to a ledge. Follow a right-trending ramp onto a large ledge. Climb direct off the ledge to gain a nice rib which is followed on great rock to the anchor. (7 bolts - rap ring anchor) A 5.8 variation finishes up the obvious nice corner to the left of the upper rib (Trad to 3”).
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 23 June, 2017

The next three climbs all start ~4 to 6m right of the small pine tree, at the base of a set of shallow corners which provide a line of weakness to gain the wall through the steep, undercut base of the crag.

CT CHINATOWN 5.10d *** 25m
Superb climb on excellent rock with lots of exposure. Pull up over the base roof to the first bolt (5.9). Move up into a short corner. Pull through the corner and head left across a block and up steep face toa rest. From the right side of a rounded hand traverse follow a thin seam leftward with non-existamt footholds onto an arête (10d). Climb direct over a ledge and short wall to finish. (9 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Hunter Lee, Philip Stone, Chris Jensen 20 May, 2017

WF 1001 WAYS TO FAME 5.9 ** 26m
Start ~6m right of the pine tree, just right of the start of M. Pull over the undercut base of the wall. Sneak up easier moves and pass the roof leftward to gain a corner. Follow a left-trending ramp then direct up the face on excellent rock to the anchor tucked below a bulging headwall. (9 bolts - rap ring anchor).
FA: Anthonie PrihatiningJati, Tyler Southam 2010

DE DRAGON EYES 5.9 ** 28m
Start as for 1001 WTF to the base of the first corner. Climb the corner direct and up a steep face to easier ground. Trend right in to a left-leaning corner/ramp/slab system and follow that up to the anchor. (10 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Robin Sutmöller, Philip Stone 21 April, 2017

OT OVERTIME 5.10a *** 28m
Pull up into a steep corner with strenuous moves to start. Continue up the corner (10a) to a ledge. Above the ledge trend left to the left side of a smooth, steep wall. A challenging high-step (10a) and mantle leads to a ledge in an alcove. Follow the easy, left-leaning slab/ramp up to the belay. (10 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Hunter Lee, Philip Stone 7 May, 2017

PT PAPER TIGER 5.10b *** 28m
At a break in the low, base roof gain the wall on small ledges. Pull around a bulge onto a detached fin into the base of a corner. Climb direct up corner (10a) to easier open rock. Face climbing leads to a tricky move into a steep corner (10b/c). Continue up the corner moving left near the top to find easier climbing to reach the anchor. (11 bolts - rap ring anchor)

FA: Hunter Lee, Philip Stone 7 May, 2017 Route Setters: Anthonie PrihatiningJati (2010) and Philip Stone (2017),

Toward the right end of the face are a series of overhanging arêtes and corners. The next two routes share a start at a smooth rectangle of rock that provides an easier way to gain the wall.

ES EMPIRE OF THE SUN 5.11c ** 27m
An outstanding route on great rock. Start up a small step to gain a steep corner. Strenuous climbing (11) up the corner trending right to easier ground. Continue over blocks and ledges to a left-angled corner-ramp up the steep headwall. Follow the corner exiting right and up face to the belay. (12 bolts - rappel ring anchor)

Route Setter: Philip Stone, Derek Jean 2018

AW ART OF WAR 5.10d *** 28m
Start with a few thin moves up a short slab. Gain a system of corners and trend diagonally left past the fourth bolt. Weave up and left through steep corners and blocks to a ramp/corner system through the bulging headwall.
(11 bolts - rap ring anchor)

FA: Aldous Sperl, Hunter Lee 9 July 2017 Route Setter: Philip Stone (2017)

GL THE GREAT LEAP FORWARD 5.10d ** 28m
Start up the same short wall as AW. Climb direct up a steep corner weaving right then left finding a line of weakness through steep corners and faces to below a roof under a rounded bulge. Bypass the bulge on the right over a stack of dangerously detached blocks moving left onto the bulge and back to solid rock. The angle eases onto a ledge. Climb a crack (one piece trad pro 0.25-0.5) with a few tricky moves to finish. (10 bolts, Trad pro 0.25-1.5 - rap ring anchor).

FA: Chris Jensen, Philip Stone, Hunter Lee 20 May, 2017

THE FAR EAST

The Far East is the extension of the East Wall running to the right (northeast) into the forest. The main path runs level below Enlightenment then a branch path angles up-slope rightward, levelling out again below a prominent open-book corner with a curved, fallen Douglas Fir tree at its base.
At the far right side of the wall is a long, mossy ramp & gully system leading up & right, over several ledges to the top of The Far East & East Wall and links to the Chinese Mountains South Peak Trail near the lookout.
Tall trees and a northeasterly aspect make this area fairly shaded, perfect for hot summer days but it is prone to seeping in early season & after heavy rain.
The first group of routes start from a nice mossy ledge just a few metres above the main access path. Gain the ledge at its left end where there is a prominent, mature Douglas Fir tree growing from the ledge.

EX EQUINOX 5.10a * 45m
The leftmost climb at The Far East. Locate the start on the left side of a mossy ledge 4-5m above the main base ledge/trail by a decent size firtree. 
1) 20m From the base of the Douglas Fir tree start up the steep, lower wall in a ferny corner. A few tricky, bouldery moves (10a) on slopers with good protection, trending rightward leads to a shallow corner. Fun moves (5.8) pulling through the corner and up onto a low angle slab to reach the belay. (6 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
2) 25m Step left 3m from the anchor to gain the toe of a nice, weathered rock rib. Climb direct up the centre of the rib. Above a mossy rest ledge the wall steepens with some fun finishing moves (5.7/8). 
(8 bolts - rappel ring anchor)

FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 20 March 2019

EQ EVERYTHING QUADRA 5.10a * 50m
The longest route on this side of the Great Wall - East Wall complex. Pitches 2 and 3 can be combined.
1) 20m Shared start with Equinox. 
(6 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
2) 20m From the anchor move up and right across a short slab to the base of a hanging corner. Pull up the small, steep arête with a funky mantle on to a rest. Shorter climbers will need a Quarrymanesque maneuver up the corner (5.9) to easier climbing. Gain a ledge then continue up and right a few mossy steps to a ledge and optional anchor at the foot of the steep, upper wall. 
(6 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
3) 10m Step up rightward onto a block next to the anchor to gain the upper wall. Trend right at first and then direct up the exposed headwall on jugs (5.8). 
(3 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 20 March 2019

E ENLIGHTENMENT 5.10a * 45m
A good route up the highest part of this wall. Rock quality improves up the climb to finish on some outstanding andesite. Scramble up onto the mossy ledge and start ~15m right of the fir tree.
1) 5.10a 30m. Pull over an undercut to a steep face and shallow corner. Climb the face to a narrow ledge on top of a rock fin. Pull up a short, steep wall to a right-leading ramp. Follow the ramp right and then up as it steepens. Climb through overlapping corners (10a) then easier climbing over some suspect rock to the righthand of two belay anchors. (13 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
2) 5.9 15m From the anchor head right, behind a large triangular rock pinnacle (consider throwing a long sling over the pinnacle). Step up onto a sloping ledge and climb the over-leaning wall on superb holds, angling rightward until a crack leads up to finish. Walk-off or rappel.
(6 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
FA: Allan Ramsay, Philip Stone 22 April, 2018

HP HEAVENLY PALACE 5.11a ** 15m
Finish pitch 1 of Enlightenment at the lefthand of two anchor stations. From the belay step left on a mossy ledge toward a small fir tree. Climb the beautiful, steep wall just right of the tree. Reachy start with thin feet. Sustained climbing on, well-spaced, sporty edges. (6 bolts - rappel ring anchor) Walk-off or rappel descent.

FA: Allan Ramsay 22 April, 2018

MW THE MIDDLE WAY 5.10d. 15m
The centre of the pitch 2 finishes to Enlightenment. Balance atop the detached pinnacle and find inner peace before launching into a committing sequence up the steep, short headwall.
(3 bolts - rappel ring anchor) Walk-off or rappel descent.

FA: Allan Ramsay 12 May, 2018

Heading to the right the base of the cliff angles uphill. Follow the access path up, passing the base of a massive Douglas Fir snag. The next routes start at the base of a large open-book corner with a curved, fallen fir tree jutting out at a 50 degree angle.

AA ARCH ANENOME 5.10d. 50m 2p
Climbs a fairly unique feature uncharacteristic of the area up an interesting and highly enjoyable line.
1) 5.10c 25m. Start behind the curved, fallen fir tree left of the prominent open-book corner. Climb the steep slab on solid, water-polished rock, direct at first then trending left to a shallow dish below the centre of the arcing roof. Strenuous moves to pull the roof through a shallow, stepped, left-facing corner (10+) to a rest. Continue direct up a series of cracks between detached flakes (caution) moving right to a narrow ledge.
Pitch 1 makes a good stand-alone sport climb. (10 bolts - rappel ring anchor).
2) 5.8 25m. From the anchor scramble ~5m up mossy steps to the base of the upper wall on the left side of a mid-size fir tree. From a horizontal flake gain the steep face and climb direct up a line of weakness to a sloping ledge. Continue direct up a series of thin cracks (2 or 3 pieces of TRAD pro 0.5”-1”) to a final slab and scamper up the last slab to the anchor. Rappel descent or walk off. (6 bolts + Trad - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Allan Ramsay, Andrew Schissler 30 April, 2018 Route Setter: Philip Stone 2018

T TRIAD 5.11a ** 25m
An outstanding, strenuous climb with one of the best (albeit short) cracks at Chinese Mountains. Starts on the right side of the prominent corner behind the curved, fallen fir tree. Climb a steep arête to a short slab that leads into a steep left-facing corner. Continue up the corner to gain a beautiful finger crack. Follow the crack to a ledge and then up past a few bushes to the anchor. Rappelling in from a high access-anchor allows setting a top rope. (9 bolts - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Allan Ramsay, Andrew Schissler 30 April, 2018 Route Setter: Philip Stone 2018

GH GARDEN OF HEATHEN 5.10a *** 40m
Named in homage the hard work of neighbouring route-developers and the aesthetics of climbing in the rainforest. A solid climb on varied but characterful rock interspersed with some wise, old trees.
1) 5.10a 25m. Several options to begin. The direct line starts up a large flake crack (#3 or 4 cam useful). Follow the flake and after the first bolt either climb direct or head right. A few strenuous moves lead to a rest. JS Jenga Start Alternatively start a few metres right pulling up a steep face to pass the initial flake (bolts).
Continue direct up fun face to a series of large corners. A corner crack leads up to the final headwall. Tricky moves to gain a series of thin cracks (#0.25-1 cams useful) and the fun finishing moves. (9 bolts + 4 cams ~4, 1 & 0.25 - rappel ring anchor)
2) 5.9 15m. Above the mid-way ledge is large, fallen, angled Douglas Fir tree in a mossy gully. Cross the ledge and gain the wall to the right of the fallen fir. Trend right following a rampy-arête until a line leads up direct on nice weathered face to the anchor amongst the straggly pines. (6 bolts - rappel-ring anchor)
FA: P1 Nic Manders, Renée Stone, Philip Stone 31 March, 2019

DN DISINTERGRATION 5.9 * 24m
The easier of the routes on this part of the wall with some interesting climbing on occasionally dubious rock. Start at the base of the prominent left-facing corner. Climb the corner to a series of steps. Leave the steps trending up onto the left wall of the corner and then direct to a small rest ledge below the final bulge. Pull up a short final corner to the anchor on the main mid-way ledge. (8 bolts - rappel ring anchor).
FA:Philip Stone, Renée Stone 20 August, 2019

DC DREAM CRUSHER 5.11a *** 25m
If you can solve the first few metres and hang on you might just make it. Climbs the buttress immediately right of the prominent corner, where the path to the top angles up & off to the right.
1) 5.11a 20m Strenuous moves to get established on the lower wall (11a). Climb direct and then trend right onto the a prow and follow it up on the crest and step right on to a ledge. Tackle the steep headwall up to the anchor with some beautiful finger locks to the belay ledge. (9 bolts - rappel ring anchor)..

FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 31 March, 2019

D DEFORMITREE 5.11+ T.B.C. 25m
A strenuous climb, at the far right end of the Far East wall, on some of the best rock on the cliff. Two sets of anchors below and above the mid-way ledge allow options for climbing only the first pitch or both.
1) 5.11+ 15m Scramble carefully up a mossy rib of shattered rock to a small ledge at the base of a shallow, but distinct, right-facing corner. Stem gingerly up the corner exiting onto the main face. Trend right climbing steep rock on arm-destroying underclings and sidepulls to a pair of finger pockets. Finish onto a narrow ledge at the lower anchor (rings). If climbing pitch 2 consider crossing the mid-way ledge to the bottom anchor to the right of the deformed tree. (6 bolts - rappel ring anchor).
2) 5.11- 10m Climb the short, initial wall to a ledge and awkward flaring roof. Pass the roof gaining a square-cut arête bounding the right end of the upper tier. Follow the arête up a few strenuous moves to an easy finish to the anchor. (5 bolts - rappel ring anchor).
OPEN PROJECT

THE ACADEMY

The Academy is the righthand extension of the upper tier of rock with the second pitches of Enlightenment and Arch Anenome at its left (south) end. Four bolted puzzles increase in difficulty and steepness from right to left; all face climbing which asks for a bit of study before giving up its secrets. Rock is sound and falls are clean. Left-hand routes share a rap anchor; right-hand routes share another.

Approach as for East Wall, then continue past the base of the Far East routes up the steep, rough top-anchor trail, taking a mossy ramp to climber's right. The path trends up and right past the top access, then turns the corner at a fallen tree to beneath The Academy. Can also approach from the South Peak by descending 50m but harder to find from above.

MC MASS CONFUCIAN 5.11b 12m *
Second from the left; crimps lead to a large blocky hold. Employ a layback, some subtle holds, and possibly a convoluted snippet of wisdom to gain a high alcove. (4 bolts - rappel ring anchor).
FA: Allan Ramsay, 7 May, 2018

PS PEKING STING 5.11a 12m *
Second from the right; from a blocky hold, launch up the bulging face into thinner territory. Keep your wits for the mantel.. (4 bolts - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Allan Ramsay, 14 May, 2018

SF SEEP OF FAITH 5.10d 10m *
Far right side of The Academy; big moves up the seep-streaked face... (3 bolts - rappel ring anchor).
FA: Allan Ramsay, 7 May, 2018

THE GREYHORN

The Greyhorn is the prominent triangular boulder lying alongside the main Chinese Mountains Trail.

CT CAT TRACK FEVER 5.10d / V2 * 7m
The obvious line up the centre of the front face of the boulder. Fun moves on edges to a strenuous sequence off a sidepull/undercling near the top. (2 bolt anchor)

West Side Crags

The West Side Crags are the group of bluffs to the west of the draw running down the centre of the south flank of the South Peak. The Great Wall is to climber's right (east) side of the draw and this group to climber's left (west)

HIDDEN CORNER

Hidden Corner Crag is on the downhill side of the west side trail immediately below Sickle Edge. Hike about 450m west of the trailhead parking lot on the west side trail, passing the Morte Lake connector junction, and upwards as the trail follows an old cat track. When Sickle Edge is visible on the uphill side look on the downhill (left) side for a spur path leading down mossy ledges. Follow the path to the base of the crag.

The top anchors can be reached from a small, pretty lookout 75m further up the trail. From the flat opening head right toward a fallen pine and then down an easy but exposed moss ramp to a comfortable anchor ledge. Nine bolted belay anchors most (but not all) with rappel rings; three on the left crag and six on the main crag. There is a slightly exposed shortcut up a mossy ramp that can be used to go between the base and the top anchors.

The crag is divided into two parts. The left (west) side is a wide triangluar face with a prominent 'skyline' rib running up the angled edge and a nice steep, dark, shaded wall below. From the corner-gully at the right end of the dark wall (90˚ to the dark face) is a smaller square-cut bluff with a even-cut faces and a nice jutting prow. There's some really fun climbs on super solid, feel-good rock.

FS FAIRY STEPS 5.5 ** 25m
A nice long fun, easy climb with just enough of a 5.5 crux to make it challenging for the grade. Climbs the clean rock up the broad face to the left of the prominent arête bounding the left side of the crag. Climb direct over several short, steep steps with good rests and fun problems. (2 bolt anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 1 March, 2015

CA CITIZENS' ARÊTE 5.5 ** 25m
A great, easy climb on superb rock, positive holds and enough exposure to keep the excitement up. An ideal beginner climb or first lead. The easiest line follows the bolt line up the angled arête bounding the left side of Hidden Corner. Start to the right of the toe of the arête and climb direct with several fun steps and good rests in between. (5 bolts - Rap Ring bolt anchor)
Variation starts possible to the left.
1- directly above the 2 bolt bottom anchor up the right-facing corner and steep wall. (5.7)
2- start next to the bottom anchor and then trend right to the first ledge. Short steep wall then join the arête. (5.7).
FA: Renée Stone 15 March, 2015

CU CIVIL UNREST 5.8 * 22m
Climbs the highest stretch of wall below the right side of Citizens' arête. Start at a narrow left-trending ramp to gain the wall then climb direct toward the tiny tree. Finish up the top part of the arête on the skyline. (5 bolts - Rap Ring bolt anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 15 March, 2015

RD RAINY DAZE 5.9 ** 18m
Climbs the highest stretch of wall below the right side of Citizens' arête. Start at a narrow left-trending ramp to gain the wall then climb direct toward the tiny tree. Finish up the top part of the arête on the skyline. (5 bolts - Rap Ring bolt anchor))
FA: Anthonie PrihatiningJati, Philip Stone 18 June, 2015

SV SECRET VALENTINE 5.8 * 17m
Starts at the bottom of the deep mossy corner-gully and step up onto the left edge of a square apron. Scramble up ledges as the rock steepens and the ledges get smaller. Make a tricky mantle to a short thin face, climb direct keeping close to the left edge of the face overlooking the corner-gully. Toward the top the climbing gets more strenuous on generous holds, with a fun, doable finish. (6 bolts - 2 rap ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 15 February 2015

BM BE MINE 5.7 ** 17m
A mirror image of the previous climb taking a line up from the right edge of the lower apron. Climb up the face along an arête above a mossy right-facing corner. Keep to the clean rock and then either step right into a shallow corner system for an easier finish, or keep to the steeper face and pull over the small roof directly above to finish. (7 bolts - 2 bolt anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 15 February 2015

P PUNCHLINE 5.? 18m
Takes the obvious shallow right-facing corner system up the centre part of this face. (2 bolt anchor)
PROJECT:

TC TWO CROWS WALKED INTO A BAR 5.8 ** 17m
Goes up the middle of the section of face between the twins and the main prow. Start up the shallow right-facing corner onto a smooth slab to gain the face. Climb direct to the overlap. Pull over the small roof on the right and finish up the middle of the face to finish. (6 bolts - 2 rap ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone 20 February, 2015

IP IPA 5.9 * 18m
Climbs the main prow. Start up the right facet of the prow over a steep bouldery mantle. Follow the left trending ramp out toward the crest of the prow and then climb directly up the prow. Climb either side of the upper arête. Thin face moves on the left or a shallow corner problem on the right. (2 bolt anchor)
FA: Mark Zimmerman 20 February, 2015

HJ HAIL-ALEU-JAH 5.10b ** 16m
Climbs the strip of brown, weathered rock to the right of the prow. Start up the grey blockyledges/ramps to a small bulging roof. Find some great holds to pull up to the roof and then a crux move to pull up onto the face (10b). Finish up on bigger holds keeping left to get the most out of the line. Grippy rock, fun moves. (6 bolts - ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone 11 April, 2015

M MAGPIE 5.9 * 14m
Squeaks a line up a strip of rock just left of the mossy corner at the far right side of the wall. Scramble over the lower blocks and climb the nice steep face above. Some fun moves on good, steep rock. (4 bolts- 2 rap ring anchor)
Route set by: Philip Stone

SC SPENCER'S CORNER 5.7 8m *
A nice, short climb on the extreme right side of the Hidden Corner crag, easily located right above the access path. Climb the obvious clean corner on its left wall on nice weather rock to a fine belay. Anchor has 3 bolts which should allow variations to be top-roped. Walk-off right. (3 bolts - bolted anchor).
FA: Ryan Van Horne Spencer Lee, Hunter Lee and Philip Stone 18 March 2019

SICKLE -KEYSTONE AREA

SICKLE EDGE

Sickle Edge is located immediately alongside the uphill side of the west side trail about 450m west of the main Chinese Mountains trail parking lot. There's a small talus slope at its base and a prominent, small sickle-shaped overlap mid-height on the centre of the crag. Although short the climbs are sustained and good quality.

Access the top of the crag by hiking around on mossy talus on climbers right. A ledge leads out underneath the Anvil into a small amphitheatre, the anchors are all accessible from here. Use righthand anchor bolts to protect access onto the main belay ledge.

AC AHEAD BY A CENTURY 5.9 18m **
At the far left end of the main section of the crag behind a pair of large trees. Start up distinct, smooth, left-leaning ramp-corners. Cross the ramps to gain a steep face with superb incut holds. Climb the face direct as it tapers to a shallow arete and continue up easier, blocky ground to finish. (6 bolts - 2 rappel ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 7 April, 2015

ND NICKLE & DIME 5.11 10m
Roof problem at the left edge of the crag. Pull roof to easier finish, taking care to avoid precarious detached blocks onthe left. (TR - bolted anchor)

BS BROKEN SICKLE 5.9 9m *
Start just left of the central prow below and to the right of the clean, light-gray ‘sickle’. Head up with steep, sustained climbing until forced left onto the sickle and then straight up to finish. (TR - bolted anchor)

DD DAWN TO DUSK 5.10a 12m **
Short steep line up the central prow. Start with a few steep but straightforward moves on good holds. Climb direct up the prow to a committing highstep on small positive holds and an easier finish. (4 bolts - rap ring anchor)

HH HAMMERHEAD 5.10a 8m *
Takes the steep, clean face to the right of the prow. Pull up onto the face just right of the base of the prow and then immediately trend right. Continue direct up the steep face above. (TR - bolted anchor - use same anchor as Dawn to Dusk)

NW NESTLE WRESTLE 5.5 6m *
The obvious, straight-sided chimney at the very right end of the crag. Wriggle & wrestle up the slot to a beautiful mossy terrace. (TR - bolted anchor)

UPPER SICKLE

Above Sickle Edge is a small amphitheatre with a small, overhanging face on the right (The Anvil), a series of broken blocks in the middle and a shallow angled arête on the far left.

TR TICKLED RIB 5.5 6m *
Short easy climb up the far left (west) side of the small curved amphitheatre above the belay anchors for OPEN PROJECT. Scramble up the arête to a bolted anchor. (TR)

OM ONE WITH MOSS 5.5 6m *
Steps and ledges to the right of Tickled Rib (TR - bolted anchor)

THE ANVIL

ST SUN TRAP 5.11a 6m *
Start up the left edge of the face up a clean slab to a shallow corner. Climb the corner to a stepped roof. Pull the roof to more steep face to finish. (TR - bolted anchor)

AD ANVIL DIRECT 5.10d 8m *
Up the small but imposingly steep face at the right side of the Upper Sickle Amphitheatre. Climb just left of centre direct up the face to a shallow groove to exit. Superb, strenuous moves on incredibly user-friendly holds. (TR - bolted anchor)

RS RAIN SHADOW 5.10 8m *
Climbs the righ side of the steep Anvil face. Ledgey rock leads to a fierce finish. (TR - rappel ring anchor)

THE PORTAL

Two short outcrops at the righthand (easternmost) end of the terrace above Sickle Edge. The Keystone Crag access gully separates the Left Portal Block from the Right Portal Wall. Several leadable routes, top rope climbs & a handful of boulder problems around the base. A good destination for instructional groups.
Easily found following the Keystone Crag access path uphill from the Beech’s Mountain Trail to the first major terrace. The top anchors can be reached from the top of the Keystone access gully. One exposed step to the Right Wall anchors can be protected by clipping the anchor bolts for TM. Care with loose rock here.

The Left Block

DT DOUBLE TROUBLE TBC 16m *
On the left end of the cube-shaped Left Block. Climb a short face to a ledge. Gain the upper face and climb direct on small holds and excellent friction.
(rappel ring anchor))
OPEN PROJECT

T TRIBUTE 5.8 16m *
Climbs the front of the Left Block. Squeeze by the mossy boulder. Gain a shallow, right-facing corner, trend left across the upper face then direct to finish.
(4 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Nic Manders July 2018

TG TRUE GRIT 5.9 15m *
Climbs the prominent, steep, square-cut arete to the left of the Keystone/Upper Sickle access gully. From the base of the gully squeeze between two large boulders to a small alcove at the base of the arete. Step onto the hanging face and make a few thin moves to a rest. Climb direct up the right face of the arete to a ledge. Pull over an angled block to another ledge and then gain a ramp-corner to finish. (4 bolts - 2 rappel ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 7 April, 2015

Several boulders around the base, and a cave under the start of True Grit, have a few problems.

CARDIAC ARREST V5 * 4m
On the downhill side of the boulder at the base of True Grit: sit-start in the hole near the bottom of the hanging block and max out your blood pressure squeezing your way up small steep crimps with a slight leftward trend
FA: Allan Ramsay

The Right Wall

TICK MAGNET 5.7 * 14m
At the point that the Keystone access gully makes its first step is a right-facing ramp-corner. Gain the corner and follow the ramp up then several easy steps to finish at anchor on the top-access ledge. (bolt anchor)

BLACK RAM 5.10- * 14m
A fun line up the best part of the wall. Steep moves to gain the rock then climb direct up into a narrow alcove. Pull up onto a steep, thin face using the left edge to finish. (4 bolts - Rappel ring anchor)

ISLAND TIME 5.8+ ** 14m
Climbs the nicest line directly up the main face of the crag. Start on the right side stepping up a few steep moves to the first bolt. Trend slightly right to a shallow horizontal seam and then a few steep moves to reach a flake. Strenuous moves up the flake and face to finish at a Douglas Fir tree.
(5 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 31 March, 2018

STAR HAPPY 5.5 * 12m
An easy scramble up some nice rock. Start on the right side of the chossy chimney right of Island Time. Scamper up easy steps trending right to a very shallow right-facing corner. Climb the nice face and arête to the right and continue direct over small ledges keeping close to the arête. Move left to finish. (4 bolts - bolt anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Nic Manders 31 March, 2018

QUADRA ROCKS 5.5 11m
The farthest righthand rib. Start up easy steps to gain the steep arête. Climb the arête direct on nice blocky holds and small ledges. (4 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
FA: Renée Stone, Nic Manders 21 April, 2018

KEYSTONE CRAG

Keystone Crag is located above Sickle Edge and the west side trail to the west of the main draw dividing the slope below the South Peak of Chinese Mountains at just a bit lower elevation than Manzanita Wall. It is best reached by hiking directly up from the west side trail to the right of Sickle Edge and up open mossy ledges to a steep, narrow gully and then open ledges to the base of the crag. Can also be reached by traversing west across the forested draw from Manzanita Wall and then down a little on the open mossy ledges.

The rock is fairly clean, steep with incredible coarse crystals for stick-to friction and some very user-friendly holds making some high quality climbing. There are two parts like a layer cake that the top has slid to the right. The lower layer juts out to the west in a wedge higher at the left end . The upper layer is highest in the middle and to the right. A prominent break, the chocolate lily ledge divides the layers and accesses the top anchors for the lower layer and to start some of the climbs on the top. There are two caves a smaller one directly below the right end of the choclate lily ledge and a much bigger cave at the far right (east) end of the crag. In the roof of the larger cave is a crack and improbably perched keystone - thus the name.

The first climb is located 30m left (west) of the left edge of the main part of Keystone Crag and Wolf Pack Corner. Easily identified by a mossy slab capped by a huge roof to the left of a narrow arête. Reach by crossing the boulderfield below Keystone and above Upper Sickle, left (west) from the top of the access gully. Tuck past a couple of trees to a mossy ledge at the base of the gully that separates this crag from Keystone Crag.

CB CORNER-AIRY-BYPASS 5.7 25m *
A super fun climb up the exposed crest of a well-defined arête. Start at the base of the big gully that separates One Trick Edge from Keystone Crag. Step up on to the bottom of the inverted-tapered arête. Easy climbing up the fin leads to a headwall. Make an exposed rising-traverse left above the top of the massive roof. Climb direct up the upper arête with a few exposed moves. Scramble up mossy ledges to the belay. (7 bolts - 2 rap ring anchor)
FA: Mick Bromely, Philip Stone 27 February, 2015

Routes described from left (west) to right (east).

WP WOLF PACK CORNER 5.7+ ** 12m
A really fine, if short, climb with great atmosphere and surprising exposure. Climb off the very far left (west) end of the ledge at the base of the crag up a first steep step. Make a tricky move to get established in the corner (5.7+) and then stem up the corner on great holds. Make a committing steep step up to all-world finishing jugs! (5 bolts - bolted belay anchor - shared rap rings).
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 13 April, 2014

TM TORN MEMENTO 5.10a 13m **
Climbs the middle of the face directly below the incredible leaning roof. Steep step to get established on wall. Make thin face moves up toward the rook then head left to a notch at the left end of the roof lip. Pull uponto a ledge and easier ground to the anchor. (5 bolts - bolted belay anchor - shared rap rings)
FA: Philip Stone, Mick Bromley 27 February, 2015

TH THIGHMASTER 5.11a 15m **
Takes a line past the right edge of the massive angled roof. Start up the short corner trending right and up to the roof. Turn the roof edge onto a square-cut block at the lip. Pull over the block and above the roof to a rest. Continue direct up steep face to a short, left-angled break and a few thin face moves to finish. (7 bolts - bolted belay anchor).
FA: Alexandra le Trionneire, Alexis Crellin 28 May, 2015

SR SADDLE ROUTE 5.10d 15m **
An instant classic! Starts up the steep, clean corner to the right of the large, angled roof below a gap and smaller angled roof blocks 7m right of Wolf Pack Corner. Pull over the small overlap climbing direct on good holds to a huge slapper. Make a sweet technical sequence up using a hidden hold to lock onto a series of hero-jugs at the lip of the small roof. Be sure to use a long draw (~30cm) for the 3rd bolt. Hang on and thrutch over the roof to a good rest. Make the most of the face above by climbing direct on thin but positive holds to the tricky finish over the rounded edge. 2 rappel-ring belay anchor. (6 bolts - 2 rap ring belay anchor)
FA: Devin Rigg 24 May, 2014

KL KEY LARGO 5.11a 12m *
The next line 4m right of Saddle Route. Start up steep, slightly over-vertical face to the righthand base of a prominent left-leaning ramp. Make a strenuous mantle onto the ramp and then climb direct up the easier face above. (4 bolts - bolted belay anchor).
FA: Léo Pontier 25 April, 2015

KC KEY CORNER 5.9 12m *
Climbs a shallow, left-facing corner on dark, almost black rock. Start directly below the base of the corner on steep face. Stem up to gain the corner and follow it up trending out left up face to finish. (5 bolts - bolted belay anchor).
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 7 April, 2015

UL UNDER LOCK AND KEY 5.10c 12m *
To the right of the shallow corner is a small roof with a nice face above. Climb direct using a single block to pass the roof. Gain the face above and climb direct on small edges and great rock. (4 bolts - bolted belay anchor).
FA: Léo Pontier 25 April, 2015

The next group of routes climb the full height of both the lower and upper tiers of the crag

TA THROW AWAY THE KEY 5.10d 18m **
Begin up the middle of a thin, steep face 3m to the right of the wide, dirty crack in the lower tier. A couple of strenuous moves on small holds (5.10+) give way to the mid-way ledge. Scramble across the ledge to the base of the upper face, right of a shallow left-facing corner. Climb the face avoiding the temptation to deek left into the deceptively difficult corner. (6 bolts - Rappel ring anchor & upper bolt anchor).
FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone, Renée Stone November 2018

MT MENTAL TICK 5.9 17m *
Start at the left side of a small cave formed by the first of the stepped roofs. Tricky boulder start to pull over the low roof (5.9) and gain the short, steep steps up to the mid-way ledge. Cross the ledge to the base of a crack. Climb the surprisingly steep, fun crack (5.9) direct to the belay. (5 bolts - rappel ring anchor).
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 3 October, 2015

LC LICHEN IN MY CLEAVAGE 5.9 16m ***
An excellent, strenuous route on great rock. Start at the right end (east) of Keystone Edge between the two caves. Pull up the short, steep right-facing corner to the mid-height ledge. Step left then up surprisingly steep blocks to a crack. Climb the crack (5.9) leaving it and trending to the right past the last bolt up steep face moves to finish. Keeping left of the last bolt works but misses the highlight finishing moves. (5 bolts - rap ring and upper top rope anchor)
FA: Devin Rigg 24 May, 2014

KK KNIGHTS WHO SAY KNEE 5.12+ 8m *
Short route which takes the keystone cave direct from the central overhead crimps. Stick-clip recommended for first draw. A complex, bouldery sequence up smooth roof holds to grippier face. Sustained. (3 bolts - rappel ring anchor).
FA: Allan Ramsay 2 April, 2018

K KEYSTONED V3 8m *
Follow the small hanging face from the keystone into the back of the cave: stand-start matched on the first crimp of a series on that face, with feet to climber’s left. The series of crimps leads to the keystone manoeuvre and up to the highball face above. Wall on right is out until after the keystone.
FA: Allan Ramsay 18 March, 2018

SH SOCK HOP 5.6+ 22m *
By taking an angled line across the right end of the crag this route manges to make the most of the great Keystone rock in a nice airy scramble. Start up the easy steps at the right side of the big cave. After the second bolt trend left making a tricky step across the crack spitting the big cave roof and continue a rising traverse clipping at least one of the bolts at the optional belay above Keystoned.
Finish at the rap rings at the LC belay or pull out to the right onto a slab and up to a bolted belay anchor at the top of the crag & walk off.
(8 bolts - bolt anchor).
FA: Renée Stone, Nic Manders, Philip Stone 12 February, 2018

Little Keystone: A small but excellent little face up and to the right of the Keystone cave, overlooking the path to the top of the main crag. Access the top belay anchors from either side.

SAFE CRACKER ~5.6 8m *
Takes the ledgey arête at the left edge of the wall, needs cleaning (Top Rope - 2 bolt anchor).
TOP ROPE

MASTER KEY 5.8 10m *
Where SAFE CRACKER climbs the left-facing corner, keep just to the right of the corner up the left edge of the nice face. (4 bolts - Shared anchor with SC).

FA: Philip Stone November, 2018

COMBINATION ~5.9 8m **
A short but excellent climb up the centre of the face (5 bolts - 2 bolt anchor)
PROJECT

CAT BURGLAR ~5.6 7m *
Start up the very small left facing corner and follow the right edge of the wall. Needs cleaning (Top Rope - 2 bolt anchor)
TOP ROPE

Above Keystone Crag are several small bouldering walls and a maze of open ledges along the open route to Bat Bark Wall.

BAT BARK WALL

Bat Bark Wall is hidden in the trees to the west of the Great Wall near the top of the central draw. Can be reached by traversing across from the base of the Great Wall and then a short descent down the main draw, or by hiking up to the base of Manzanita Wall and traversing west into the central forested draw and then up the main draw to locate Bat Bark Wall on the left (west) side of the draw. Also reached from the west side trail via Sickle Edge & up the mossy ledges above Keystone Crag.

It is a steep to overhanging wall of clean grey basalt. One bolted belay anchor with rappel rings. Reach the top on climber's left up.. you guessed it, mossy ledges.

Evening Group

This group of crags are well to the west of the parking lot clustered at the end of the base of the south peak of Chinese Mountains where the west side trail ends its long traverse and curves upward to gain the elevation to the Beech's Mountain trail junction and the south peak lookout.

EVENING GROUP

The Evening Wall Group is located 700m west of the Chinese Mountains trailhead parking lot immediately above the west side trail. It is one of the driest of the crags and with its sunny, southwest exposure is a good choice for winter and early season.

The crags are split into several sections. At the bottom, tucked behind some trees and bushes, is a short, outcrop: Below the Horizon. To the right of that is a path that leads up to the base of a long, even-angled bushy gully which provides access to Wild Rose Country and the top anchors.

To the left of the gully is Horizon Wall and to the right Yardarm Bluff. From the base of the gully a wide ledge runs to the left (west) to the start of Horizon and then up a few gravel ledges to the base of a steep, chossy gully and the base of Twilight and Ironwood Corner.

Evening Wall is the high, wide, blocky, ledgey face overlooking the trail with some short, multi-pitch routes. Two exposed ledges linked at the left side (west) give access to the anchors in the middle of the wall.

Below the Horizon

A small, clean outcrop of excellent rock tucked in behind a clump of bushes and a fir tree below the base of Horizon Wall. It is easily reached just a few metres above the Beech’s Mountain trail. Although short the crag has quality climbs and the easily accessed top anchors add up to make a good choice for warm-up, top-roping or introductory climbs. These routes would easily get an additional star if they were a bit longer.

D DUBLOONIES 5.8 11m
Furthest route to the left. Climb direct up the steep, initial wall. Make a tricky move to pull up into the base of a right-angled corner-ramp. Climb direct off the ramp up a narrow prow of nice rock and head straight up to the anchor. (Top Rope)

Route Setter: Philip Stone 2017

P8 PIECES OF EIGHT 5.10a 11m
Start on the left side of a triangular face using a right-leaning crack and holds. From the centre of the face climb direct. (Top Rope)

Route Setter: Philip Stone 2017

PC PIRATES OF THE CARABINER 5.10b 13m *
From immediately behind the tree pull onto the wall using some burly slappers. Follow a lower angled face slightly left into the centre of the triangular face and then direct to the anchor (Top Rope)

Route Setter: Philip Stone 2017

DC DEADMAN'S CHEST 5.10c 12m *
Short, high-quality boulder moves, reminiscent of the 10-pluses at Keystone. Start on the left side of the roof alcove. Pull out of the alcove on superb holds and up steep face direct to a strenuous mantle problem. Traverse the foot ledge rightward and then up easier face moves direct to the anchor. (3 bolts - rap ring anchor)

FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 15 April 2016

ST SUNKEN TREASURE 5.9 12m *
Short but super fun climb Start at the very right edge of the overhang. Climb past the angled crack onto a shallow prow then direct to finish. Strenuous with great holds. (4 bolts)

FA: Philip Stone, Tak Ogasawara 10 June 2014

DJ DAVEY JONES LOCKER 5.8 10m
Start at the right side of the crag just a few metres up the angled base. Steep climbing on good holds and grippy crystals. (3 bolts - Rappel Rings)

FA: Tak Ogasawara, Philip Stone 10 June 2014

Evening Wall

The ledge at the top of Below the Horizon cuts to the base of a gully splitting Horizon Wall from Evening Wall and accesses a number of excellent climbs on Evening Wall. From left to right.

ES EVENING STAR 5.6 20m *
Climbs a wide, moderate crack up the middle of the wall. Reach the base by traversing the exposed ledge from the base of Ironwood Corner or by traversing in from the left directly off the trail. (TRAD to 4 - rap ring anchor).

FA: Philip Stone, Mark Zimmerman, Tak Ogasawara 3 May, 2015

BS BEDTIME STORY 5.7 25m *
The obvious clean line up the slab on nice, grippy rock. The route as far as the first optional bolted anchor is a perfect climb for kids and first time climbers. The full route makes a good extra first pitch for Evening Star or Cinderella Story. Make a tricky step to gain the rock and then easy climbing direct to a ledge and the optional first anchor. 16m 5.6 (3 bolts - bolted anchor). To continue, gain the next bulge on the right. Make a balancey step left onto the slab and climb direct to the next ledge and anchor. Total: 25m 5.7 (6 bolts - rap ring anchor).
FA: Philip Stone, Nic Manders 15 April, 201

CS CINDERELLA STORY 5.9 65m **
The longest route on Evening Wall weaving together three pitches of clean rock for a fun, rambling adventure. Locate the start at the base of Storytime Slab just a few metres off the Beech’s Mountain trail behind a large fir tree.
P1 - Start up Bedtime Story a straightforward scramble up a clean slab. Pass the first belay anchor and continue up a second step of clean rock to a grassy ledge 5.6 25m (? bolts - rap ring anchor). This pitch is easily avoided using access ledges.
P2 - Make tricky moves to gain an obvious right-trending ramp up the steep light-coloured face. Pull off ramp onto a slab. Climb direct up two short corners to another wide grassy ledge 5.8 20m (5 bolts + TRAD 0.25 to 0.75 - rap ring anchor)
P3 - From the belay ledge climb direct up clean face underneath a prominent roof. Trend right to a left-facing corner below the roof. Pull up and out right to bypass the roof and then direct up the face. 5.9 20m (5 bolts - rap ring anchor)

FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 15 April, 2016

MX MIDNIGHT EXPRESS 5.8 55m *
A moderate line with three short pitches up the full height of the crag with some fun climbing and possible variations.
P1 - Start behind a pair of large fir trees to the left of the top anchors on Below the Horizon. Climb a short steep step to gain slabby rock above. Belay on same ledge as base of Ironwood Corner 5.7 15m (4 bolts - rap ring anchor)
P2 - Climb the left edge of a huge detached pinnacle/flake. Continue direct above the pinnacle following cracks and steep face to the wide belay ledge. 5.8 20m (3 bolts + TRAD 0.5” to 2”)
P3 - From the belay ledge climb up a left-angled break and then direct over a small roof, easier to the left. Continue up over a series of blocks forming a detached flake and a final short steep headwall to finish. 5.7 20m (6 bolts - rap ring anchor).

FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 12 April, 2015

AE AFTER EIGHT FLAKE 5.8 20m *
Start up the right edge of a huge detached flake. Drop a long sling over the large horn. Gain the left-angled corner ramp, follow it to a steep step (#6 stopper) onto a low-angle slab, a last step leads up to a ledge. (4 bolts - rap ring anchor shared with MX).
Route Setter: Philip Stone

NF NIGHTFALL CORNER 5.10c 20m *
Takes the dog-leg corner behind the fir tree. Start up a short face below a steep wall. Trend left up the steep corner and onto the easier rock above. Care passing a large, loose block. Continue direct to the belay. (5 bolts + Trad - rap ring anchor shared with WS).

FA: Anthonie PrihatiningJati, Philip Stone 10 May, 2015

IC IRONWOOD CORNER 5.10d 15m **
A really eye-catching line! Start up and just to the right of the large Douglas Fir Tree left of the Horizon ledge. Climb the series of sharp arêtes to the base of the very steep corner. Stem up the corner with thin holds. Rappel descent (6 bolts - rap ring anchor).

FA: Anthonie PrihatiningJati 18 June, 2014

WS WILDFLOWER STEM 5.7+ 17m *
An easier twin corner to Ironwood. Start up the blocky gully to the right of Ironwood Corner and then trend left up the deep-cut corner on very clean, smooth, black rock. As the corner steepens stem out. 15m up is the anchor at the top of Ironwood Corner which can be used to make this a short single pitch climb and set a top rope on Ironwood. Alternatively clip one of the bolts and continue up to the wide ledge 3m above and belay. (TRAD to 1.5”, mostly <3/4” - rap ring anchor shared with NF).

FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 17 June, 2014

T TWILIGHT 5.10a 25m ***
An airy line through the steep series of roofs and rounded pillow lavas to the left of the steep, chossy gully dividing Evening Wall from Horizon Wall. Start at the base of the gully just to the right of Wildflower Stem. Climb up black and grey blocks to a narrow even-angled black face. Climb the smooth face (5.10a) to a ledge (Optional top rope anchor). Above the ledge work through a line of weakness between overhanging blocky roofs. Awesome exposed climbing on generous holds. (15 bolts - rap ring anchor)

FA: Anthonie PrihatiningJati 18 June, 2014

Horizon Wall

Horizon Wall is the central part of the Evening Wall Group with a well-defined front prow and a large black face curving around to the right above the long, even-angled gully that separates the wall from Yardarm Bluff. Reach the start of the climbs from the west side trail passing the small outcrop of Below the Horizon on the right up a short path. An obvious wide ledge breaks across to the left to the start of Horizon and the Evening Wall climbs. Straight above is the gully to Wild Rose Country and the top of the whole Evening Group of crags.

HN HIGH NOON 5.10b 15m **
From the wide ledge at the base of Horizon, go up to the left onto a higher ledge. Climbs the steep wall to the left of the prow (Horizon). Technical and balancey crux. (7 bolts).

FA: JJ Wytrwal, Anthonie PrihatiningJati 22 August, 2014

H HORIZON 5.10a 40m ***
Start on a nice ledge 10m or so above the trail on the right side of the main part of the wall and just left of a gully. The crux is right at the bottom to get to first jug before making a high first clip (stick clip or crash pad useful). A couple of 5.10 moves going over the bulges mid-way up. Pass a bolted anchor at 25m (this allows the lower route to be top roped). Continue above the first anchor 15m to finish. The route is very well protected (16 bolts).
FA: Anthonie PrihatiningJati 6 April, 2014

E EVENTIDE 5.10 (TBC) 40m ***
Just to the right of Horizon. Start up a steep thin face to a small but tricky roof. Continue direct up the face above (bolts - rap ring anchor).
Route set by: Anthonie PrihatiningJati 2015

DW DARKWAVE 5.8 35m ***
A fine climb up the full height of the wall with good variety and an exciting finish. Start just right of the toe of the buttress at the base of the wide, vegetated-gully.
Gain the wall on black, water-washed rock trending left (5.8) to a ledge. From the left end of the ledge pull over a bulge (5.8) and climb up to a second ledge. Continue a short crack then trend left onto a nice face of coarse, weathered rock and climb direct to a short corner. Exposed moves out of the corner left onto a rib. Continue direct up the rib to a short slab. Cross the slab trending right and tackle an overlap to gain the final steep-headwall (5.8) and mantle on to the anchor ledge.
(10 bolts + cams to 3” - Rappel ring anchor).
FA: Renée Stone, Philip Stone 13 October, 2019

V VISTA 5.10b 25m **
To the right of Horizon, start just a few metres up the wild rose gully. Committing roof problem followed by a bulge. (16 bolts - 3 fixed draws at crux).

FA: Anthonie PrihatiningJati 25 August, 2014

P PHARMACIDE 5.10c 22m ***
Climb direct up a rib on the lower band of black rock to the overlapping roof. Pull the roof with on painfully small pinches better holds on the face above (10c) and continue climbing direct to the anchor up easier face (7 bolts - rap ring anchor).

FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 7 June, 2016

WC WILD ROSE COUNTRY 5.11a 25m **
Takes a steep line up the clean, coarse, black rock half-way up the gully separating Horizon Wall from Yardarm Bluff. Scramble up the gully right of Horizon to the base of the route. Start up the smooth black rock on thin holds to a shallow right-facing corner (11a). Step right across a scooped ledge to a steep, narrow pillar. Climb the pillar to a bulge. Pull rightwards over the bulge on super-coarse rock (5.10a) and up to easier ground to finish. Belay anchors with rappel rings behind the stubby tree.

FA: Seanathon Morphy, Kaitlyn van der Werff 31 August 2014

YARDARM BLUFF

Yardarm Bluff is located 650m west of the Chinese Mountains trailhead parking lot just to the right (east) of Evening Wall above the west side trail. Follow the trail to below Evening Wall and then scramble up to the right passing the base of a long, even-angled gully along the right (east) edge of Evening Wall. Yardarm Bluff curves around from the gully, wrapping around to the right.

The top is easily reached up climber's right of the bluff up ledges alongside a wet seep dripping over some black rock.

TW TAI-WON-ON 5.7 30m *
This fun climb follows a series of ledges, corners, cracks and short faces up the arête bounding the left side of the crag, overlooking the gully between Yardarm and Horizon Wall.
Two possible starts: either traverse in from the left, across the ledge at the base of the gully between Yardarm and Horizon Wall to a bottom anchor, or start higher up to the right, just a few metres left of the start of LC, on the ledge crossing the south face of Yardarm. Trend left along the ledge to join the route above the first steps.
Climb a series of short steps and ledges to reach a short, steep face. Climb direct to a ledge and gain the blocky arête as it becomes more defined. Follow cracks and corners up the arête. Finish up a low-angle slab to the anchor. (Trad to 3” - rappel ring anchor).
FA: Andrew Schissler, Philip Stone 28 October, 2019

LC LOOSE CHANGE 5.8+ 20m *
Start on the far left side of the ledge running across the south-facing wall (left of Chocolate Lily) at a 2 bolt bottom anchor. Start up a short, steep slot to gain the wide open face. Trend left and up the face with a few fun moves and a mix of good trad protection. (4 bolts + trad to 3” - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 7 July, 2018

TG TRAD-GICALLY GRIPPED 5.9 22m **
From the middle of the ledge crossing the south-face, at a single bolt bottom anchor, start up a steep step to gain a fine, right-facing corner. Climb the corner (0.3 Camalot useful) and then make a committing step left across a scoop to gain a rib alongside the same face that LC climbs. Climb the rib direct to the shared anchor with Loose Change. (8 bolts + trad - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Philip Stone, Nic Manders 7 July, 2018

CM CRYSTAL MALICE 5.9 20m *
At the right side of the narrow mossy ledge running below the face look for an angled break and roof running up to the left across the wall. Start at a single bolt, bottom anchor up a shallow, right-facing corner. Climb the corner (5.9) directly. Choose whether you want to sacrifice the best hand hold at the crux for a #0.4 cam between bolts 2 and 3. Step out of the corner to the left avoiding the roof. Scramble up to a rest ledge. Continue weaving up a series of short steps (5.7) and ledges (small wires & #3 Camalot useful) to the anchor.
(4 bolts + trad - rappel ring anchor).
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 25 July, 2018

CL CHOCOLATE LILY 5.10a 18m *
Climbs the very right edge of the front side of the crag just before it wraps around the rounded prow Start at the base of a mossy ramp up a short slab. Climb direct to a bulge with a shallow corner (5.10a). Pull over the bulge to easier climbing. Continue straight up to bolted anchor. 6 bolts.

FA: Anthonie PrihatiningJati 6 May, 2014

PP PERFECT PRESENCE 5.9 18m *
Takes the right edge of the rounded prow on the right end of the bluff on cheese-grater coarse rock. Start just a few metres up the mossy ramp along the base, up a thick, detached but solid flake. Climb direct up a steep shallow corner stepping left to find easier ground. Continue over bulges. A few surprisingly steep and delicate moves to finish. 5 bolts to bolted belay/rap station.

FA: Mick Bromley, Philip Stone 1 May, 2014

OY OVER THE YARDARM 5.10a 12m *
Start 3 to 4m up the mossy ramp from Perfect Presence up a shallow corner of yellow-ish rock. Climb the difficult but fun bulge direct and then up easier ground to bolted belay station.

TR

SUNSET SLAB

Sunset Slab is located 750m west of the Chinese Mountains trailhead parking lot on the downhill side of the west side trail. Follow the west side trail about 700m past the base of Evening Wall and then head out onto the large, open mossy-terrace on the downhill side of the trail, takes 15-20 minutes from the parking lot. Great views of the Vancouver Island mountains from the top of the crag. A great place for lunch or to finish the day.

The crag is split into two distinct halves, a higher righthand slab and a shorter section to the right. The base of the main slab is easily reached by descending on the east side (climbers right) off the main trail onto a flat ledge skirting the east edge of the bluff. An easy, short descent leads down to a pretty grove of large old-growth Douglas fir trees. Alternatively rappel down Sunset Strip, taking care to knot rope ends for the full 30m rappel! The base of the shorter righthand slab can be reached by scrambling down a ledge and ramp system on climber's right (to the left as you look down the wall from the top) there's one short steep step that needs extra care to reach a nice wide platform at the base of the routes.

At the top are six bolted belay anchors, three on the highest, lefthand part of the crag and three to the east at the top of the shorter righthand slab.

SUNSET LEFTHAND

OS OVERSITE 5.8 35m **
Fantastic climb on great rock and an interesting feature. Head left on a narrow mossy ledge ~8m from base of SW to an alcove below a steep wall, 2 bolt bottom anchor. 
Start scrambling up left up steps and small corners to a ledge below a wedge-shaped face. Gain the face with a committing move to make the third clip (5.8). Continue direct on superb rock finishing the pitch up a steep face. (8 bolts - rappel ring anchor) Either belay at the first anchor or romp up 12m of low 5th class (3 bolts -rappel ring anchor).
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 28 September, 2019

SW SATIRIC OF THE WEST 5.8 30m *
Start just a few metres left of the shared starting point of SS & DW from a mossy ledge. Make a tricky (5.8) move stepping up a small corner to gain a left-trending ramp. Follow the ramp left then climb direct over sloping steps with a fun pull onto a short slab. Cross the slab to a head wall. Climb the head wall (5.8) to easier slab. Finish at SS anchor or station just a bit lower to the left. (10 bolts - rappel ring anchor).
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 28 September, 2019

SS SUNSET STRIP 5.7 30m **
Should be graded 5.F for fun! A highly enjoyable, well protected climb up the left (west) edge of Sunset Wall. Start at the mossy ledges above a big fir tree on a short tapered slab. Climb straight up the slab to the bolt at the top of the slab then step slightly right then directly up on steep blocky ground past a stunted cherry tree, with good holds and well-placed bolts (5.6). A few delicate but well-protected face moves on small but positive holds (5.8) leads to easier climbing (5.5) straight up to the belay. Varied & interesting climbing. Recommended. (11 bolts).
FA: Philip Stone, Greg Shea, Mick Bromley 14 April, 2014

DW A DREAM OF WILD ONIONS 5.7 35m *
Takes a slightly rightward trending line up the highest, central part of the crag. Start on the same mossy ledge as Sunset Strip up the short slab. As soon as possible clip the first bolt to the right and step off the lower part of the slab out right onto a rib. Climb the rib with a slab move up to a small ledge and bulge. Pass the bulge with good holds on the right and then step up and out left to get on the better, cleaner rock. Climb trending slighly right to the ubiquitous basalt break-ledge (optional 2-bolt belay). Make a tricky high step (5.7) to pass the small overlap above the ledge. A few thin moves (5.8) lead to blocky holds and an easy but steep finish. (9 bolts).
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone April 1, 2014

SU SULPHUR SLAB 5.7 28m *
Climbs right side of main slab. Start from ledge in mossy corner. 5.6 to start then easier climbing. One tricky move (5.7) to reach clip out to the right (had to be there because of hollow rock). Finish up shallow left facing corner. (Rap ring anchor - 12 bolts)
FA: Philip Stone, Tak Ogasawara 10 June 2014

SUNSET RIGHTHAND

AD AFTERNOON DELIGHT 5.5 18m *
Climbs left side of the shorter right-hand slab. Direct line on positive holds. (Rap ring anchor 7 bolts).
FA: Tak Ogasawara, Philip Stone 10 June 2014

SC SOUR CHERRY PIE 5.6 16m *
The nicest line on this part of the slab and a great introductory lead with fun, straightforward climbing and good protection. Start at the base of the middle of the slab and climb direct up the clean, high quality rock. (6 bolts)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 17 June, 2014

RT RAP-A-TAK 5.6 15m *
Start at the base of the access corner and ramp at the rightside of the slab. Climb direct on good holds and then trend rightward. Head up direct toward a small roof. Tackle the roof or avoid it to the right to finish. (5 bolts - rap rings)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 17 June, 2014

UPPER REALM

The Upper Realm is a cluster of small outcrops above Evening Wall and Keystone Crag - about the same elevation and to the left (west) of Bat Bark Wall. The features here are mostly short, best suited to bouldering. There is a lot of potential and the situation and setup is perfect with great views and excellent flat mossy ledges for landings. A crash pad and a wire brush is all that is required for hours of fun!

To reach the Upper Realm head uphill from either Keystone Crag or Yardarm Bluff. There is a prominent treed ledge that runs across most of the hillside (see photo above). There is a long, short wall hidden behind the trees above Evening Wall, it's a bit mossy but there is lots of cleaner, drier rock out on the open ledges. There a couple of nice short crags at the top of Keystone between it and the base of Bat Bark too.

It's easy to make a loop following the flagged routes from Sickle, up to Keystone and then down to Leaning Tree and back to the west side trail. Also from the base of Bat Bark heading west across to the top of Evening Wall (see photo above).

Higher up around the west side trail as it nears the top of Chinese Mountains south peak are more short outcrops, one or two look very promising but they are a bit removed from the rest of the crags.

THE BALCONY

The Balcony is one of the nicest of the rock outcrops at the Upper Realm, a cluster of short walls high up the hillside above the Evening Group. It’s a bit of a hike to get to, for the size of the crag, but it does have a very pretty setting, good rock, lots of potential for more similar problems with easy access to top anchors and safe, flat base-ledge all with a fantastic view perched high above the West Side Crags. A 20m rope is more than long enough for this crag.

ACCESS:The most direct a route to The Balcony is via the path up the forested draw past Leaning Tree Edge. Hike from the Chinese Mountains parking lot on the Beech’s Mountain trail for 150m then leave the trail to the right on the uphill side and follow the path up the long draw past The Great Wall. The terrain levels out on a forested terrace. Watch for a spur path to the left that heads up onto a small treed knoll.

Another option is to follow the Beech’s Mountain trail past the turn off to Eagle Crag and all the way up to a flat, muddy puddle from where a flagged path heads up, to the right, through the forest to the crag. This path makes a good return for a loop with the Leaning Tree approach

MM MAISIE’S MAZE 5.7 7m *
Climbs the ledgey arête at the left edge of the face. (Top Rope)

KK KID YOU KNOT 5.9 9m *
Climbs the breaks up the left edge of the crag. (Top Rope)

SE SOLO EFFORT 5.8 9m *
Shallow corner to right-trending ramp. (Top Rope)

CO CHEEKY ONE 5.10a 7m *
Climbs thin, slabby face (Top Rope)

IC IMP’S CRACK 5.8 7m *
Climbs the breaks and curving crack up the right edge of the crag. (Top Rope)

EAGLE CRAG

EAGLE CRAG is the largest bluff in the Chinese Mountains - Morte Lake area with adventurous climbing on some of the Island's longest developed routes. It is a dramatic feature, in some ways could be considered the third peak of Chinese Mountains and has stunning views, especially to the west over Discovery Passage and the Vancouver Island mountains. The rock is some of the best in the area with nice continuous lines of relatively clean, very-coarse andesite.

The crag is located about 400m to the west of Sunset Slab and Evening Wall. It's ~60m high with most routes equipped with mid-station belays to break the climbs into 2 pitches/ 30m rappel descents.

Access is off the West Side/Beech's Mountain trail. From the main Chinese Mountains parking lot head west on the Beech’s Mountain trail passing Sickle Edge and the Evening Wall group. Continue on a long traverse across a talus slope to a pronounced corner on the trail where there is a small but fast-moving creek that cuts the trail corner and often washes out the trail. Leave the trail heading west across a series of easy open bluffs on an obvious path.

Watch for the access path to the top of the east side of the crag which strikes up steeply from the main route to the base as the main path reaches a patch of forest. The main path ascends a mossy ramp-boulderfield and reaches the centre of the crag at the base of a large grey corner (the start of Talon). About 40 minutes from the parking lot. The forested ledge below the Main Wall makes a good base and an important landmark to identify and reach the climbs on the main wall.

Good paths reach the top on both ends of the crag. The path to the east end of the crag and the routes on Flying Snag Wall leaves the main path about 80m before the base of the Main Wall. The path to the west end of the crag is easily found by following the salal-covered ledge along the base to the far left and scrambling up easy mossy ledges.

At the far left (west) end of the crag a flagged line also descends a forested draw down to the fern flats below and then along an old logging road bed to join the Morte lake trail just east of Little Morte Lake. This makes a great way to link the Chinese Mountains crags with the Morte Lake area.

The crag is divided into three main sections by two steep gullies: the West Wing to the left (west) Main Wall in the centre and the East Wing to the right (east).

WEST WING

This is the large section of the crag to the far west (climber’s left) end of the crag. Follow the trail to the base of the prominent grey corner and then continue west along the base of the crag for another 75m. There is a small open meadow that makes a warm sunny hangout, overlooked by a small, rounded rock - the Eagle Egg - otherwise most of the base of the crag is shaded by trees.

FG FOOL'S GOLD 5.6 55m *
A fun, moderate climb up the far left end of the crag. Good, clean rock. Slabby climbing on generous holds and lots of exposure. Can be climbed in two pitches or one long pitch.
Start up an angled corner into a gully. Cross the gully above a rock pinnacle and up to a narrow ledge. Mantle over a short step and up a short wall to a small but comfortable optional belay ledge. (2 ring rappel anchor). Head up left off the ledge onto a narrow, exposed, rounded face. Climb direct up a beautiful weathered face with sticky friction and generous holds. Rappel descent or walk-off left. (13 bolts - 2 rap ring anchor)
FA: Tak Ogasawara, Philip Stone 9 April, 2015

L LOCKDOWN 5.7 55m *
P1- Start at the base of Crack’teryx. Either stick clip the first bolt and pull over the small roof on letterbox holds, or start up the crack moving left onto the face at the first bolt. Make a few thin face moves then traverse left on better holds and up to a series of ledgey blocks. Climb direct up short, steep steps on great rock to a ledge. Optional belay shared with Crack’teryx. (10 bolts)
P2- Leave the belay heading left up a nice, steep face. Mantle onto a ledge and then continue up easy scrambling to the top. (6 bolts) Can be climbed as one long pitch
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone, Andrew Schissler, Natasha Rafo 9 May, 2020

CX CRACK'TERYX 5.6 55m *
A long, wide crack running up the full height of the crag. Start up a short, steep step directly along the crack. Climb several steps with easier ground between. Optional belay at halfway. Protection is spaced but solid. (TRAD 1” - 4” - rap ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 29 May, 2015

RR RAT RACE 5.8 28m *
Shared start with MT . Start up a steep wall below a blocky bulge. Pull up and right into a right-facing corner. Either follow the line of bolts on MT to the first ledge (5.7) or climb the two stacked corners left of the bolts with Trad pro (0.3 to 1.5”). From the ledge take the left bolt line up steep face with a thin, incipient crack to belay ledge (5.8). (10 bolts - rap anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 10 July, 2016

MT MOUSETRAP 5.9 50m **
P1 - Begin below a blocky bulge, climb up and step right into a right-facing corner. Climb direct over a series of steps to a ledge (5.7). Follow the righthand bolt line off the ledge up a steep face with some fun moves on superb, steep, grippy rock and pull onto a ledge 25m 5.9 (10 bolts - rap anchor)
P2 - Climb to the right off the ledge and up a clean face which steepens to a difficult bulge. Back out of the trap and renegotiate the bulge to gain a ledge. Two shorter, easier steps. 25m 5.9 (6 bolts - rap anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 10 July, 2016

FO FOOL ME ONCE 5.9 40m **
Start up a thin crack up a short, steep pony-wall to a wide, sloping ledge. Optional belay to the right. Continue up the left side of the upper face (#2 cam useful). Quality climbing with short, fun cruxes. (11 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Tak Ogasawara 9 April, 2015

FP FOOL'S PARADISE 5.10a 25m **
An enjoyable route. Start up the short, steep pony-wall to the wide, slabby ledge. Consider clipping a long (~120cm) sling on the optional anchor. Climb to the right of the optional belay anchor with good holds to start onto a thin face. Climb the face direct with short difficulties between rests. Finish at a ledge partway up the crag. (8 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone 14 July, 2015

FA FOOLED AGAIN 5.10b 40m **
Start at the base of the gully same as ER. Two options to start: A) either climb the left-angled corner (Trad .25 - 2) onto a small arête that leads to a short slab; or B) start up ER and at bolt 3 step left and gain the short slab. Continue delicately to the left of a pile of stacked, detached blocks to a rest ledge. Step left and then up a steep, thin face (5.10-) to gain a left-angled hand traverse. Traverse up left and then thrutch over the bulge (5.9) to finish. (15 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 6 May, 2015

CF CULTURE OF FEAR 5.10a 50m ***
An intimidatingly steep line with fantastic climbing.P1 - Start up the gully as for ER. At the base of the crack step left onto the face and into a right-facing corner. At the top of the corner step right onto the steep overlapping face. Climb direct on surprisingly positive holds with fun crux moves and a couple of key rests. Traverse left to reach the belay ledge. (30m 10a 12-bolts rap ring anchor - can lower/rappel to base from this belay with 60m rope - just).
P2 - From belay climb optional pitch 2 over mossy ledge and up interesting, weathered face (20m 5.9 4-bolts - shared rap ring anchor with ER)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 7 June, 2015

ER EMERGENCY RAINBOW GENERATOR 5.7+ 50m ***
One of the few climbs at this area with any length of natural crack taking trad pro, and luckily it’s a superb route, steep, with ample pro, ridiculously good holds and a dose of exposure! Best climbed as a single pitch can be divided into two pitches.
Start up a short, steep step (1 bolt) to gain a wide chimney/gully. Scramble up the easy-angled gully (5.5) toward the base of the crack. As the rock steepens pull out to the right onto a small ledge (optional bolted belay anchor) Climb the steep face above the ledge (1 bolt) and return to the crack. Pull over a small overlap and continue up the crack with good protection, positive holds and a couple of decent rests. Pull out to the right again on detached blocks and then follow the crack onto a wide grassy ledge. Cross the ledge and finish up the face (2 bolts) to the left of the upper part of the crack. (TRAD double #2 & #3 cams useful + 4 bolts - 2 rap ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Angelica Lauzon 19 April, 2015

A AMNESIAC 5.10+ 20m **
Climbs the left side of the face on the interesting, rounded block to the right of ER. Start up a corner and mantle onto a slab. A tricky move up a short wall leads to a small overhang. Using the thin vertical crack pull up onto the face and follow the crack to a sharp left hand turn. Climb the face direct or find easier moves to the left. (8 bolts - clip-and-go anchor)
CLOSED PROJECT

CC CRASH CORNER 5.8 20m **
Takes the prominent open-book, right-facing corner on the right side of the Amnesiac block. Start up the lower wall as for BB and RT (4 bolts) to the wide ledge. Head up directly into the corner and climb it as it steepens toward the top. Pull onto an angled ledge/ramp to reach the anchor. (4 bolts + TRAD 1”-4” - clip-and-go anchor).
FA: Anthonie PrihatiningJati 10 June, 2015

BB BANG FOR YOUR BOLT 5.9 45m **
Begin 8m to the left of a low cave at the base of the crag making a rising traverse up small, ledgey holds. Make a couple of tricky moves (5.9) up to a wide ledge. Step right on the ledge to the base of a short corner. Stem up the corner and toward the top step out left (5.9) onto the exposed face and up onto a ledge. Climb the steep wall to the right of a detached pinnacle (5.8) and continue direct up easier ground (5.6) to the belay. (11 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Angelica Lauzon 19 April, 2015

RT RAVEN TALES 5.10a 50m ***
Climb the same start as Bang for Your Bolt (5.9) and at the wide ledge head out to the right from the base of the corner where BB goes up the ramp. Climb the thin face (5.10a) and pull onto a small ledge with an optional bolted belay. Climb direct off the belay up a steep arête edge. Stem up an over-leaning right-facing corner (5.8) keeping on the face to the right and then cruise up a beautiful long, exposed jug-cruise to the top. (13 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Anthonie PrihatiningJati 18 April, 2015

BS BROMANCING THE STONE 5.9 55m ***
An enjoyable route with a good variety of climbing positions, rock features and an especially excellent, direct second pitch.
P1 - Start on the left side of a recess where the wall can be gained without the undercut base-roof. Climb a steep step to a wide ledge. Step left & up an open-book corner to a left-angled slab/ramp 5.9 27m (8 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
P2 - Climb direct from the anchor up a right-facing corner gully. Several fun steps. 5.9 28m (9 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
FA: Jesse Mcilwraith, Philip Stone, Nic Manders 16 June 2016

EL THE EAGLE HAS LANDED 5.10b 55m ***
An excellent, characterful climb with distinctive rock, a fun, exposed crux. Notable for the nice, continuous pitches.
P1 - Start in the centre of a recess on grey rock. Follow an angled crack to a series of horizontally overlapped-blocks. From a rest pull a bulge to a steep shallow, right-facing corner and on to a large ledge. 5.9 27m (10 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
P2 - Climb a right-facing corner then at a roof pull out left and up the steep face. 5.10b 28m (8 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
FA: Jesse Mcilwraith, Philip Stone 15 June 2016

M MEC-ANIZATION 5.10b 55m ***
A great route with an especially outstanding second pitch. Do it to pay homage to the lone pine & props to MEC Victoria.
P1 - Start on the right of the recess up a crack that runs along the edge of a small pinnacle. Climb the pinnacle up to a ledge with bushes. Continue direct up a steep wall and slab in a right-facing corner. 24m 5.9 (8 bolts - ring anchor)
P2 - Move right from the belay into a right-facing corner. Climb the corner to a ledge then angle left under a bulge. A few thin moves up excellent face direct with superb, small-holds. Belay at the ‘lone’ pine. 27m 5.10b (9 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
FA: Jesse Mcilwraith, Philip Stone 15 June 2016
Bolts provided by MEC Victoria, with much love from the climbing staff.

LP LONE PINE ARÊTE 5.9+ 55m ***
Takes an airy line up a blunt arête with a balancey crux and sustained climbing. ID the route to climber’s right of a large lone-pine tree high up on the wall. Scramble up easy ground onto an exposed ledge with a single-bolt bottom anchor.
Start up a dirty corner-gully. Gain the clean, grey rock to the left and make a delicate traverse left onto the arête (5.9). Continue direct up super fun face moves to a small ledge and optional belay. Climb direct from the belay up steep, dark rock passing several yellow sulphur-patches. Grapple with the steep arête with full-on exposure switching from the left to right side and back left. A series of short, steep steps leads to the belay anchor on a large block just to the right of the twin-topped lone pine. (20 bolts - 2 rappel ring anchor) 2x <30m rappel descent or walk-off left.
FA: Philip Stone, Nic Manders 28 February, 2015

DB DRIVE BY 5.10- 60m **
A wandering line that links three pitches of enjoyable climbing on good rock. Pitches can be mixed with FIRE BAN.
P1 - Scramble up to a ledge below a small roof, same as FB. Climb ribs in an angled corner on the left to a steep face. Climb direct to a small overlap. Pass a small, right-facing corner and up face to the belay. 5.9 25m (9 bolts - bolted anchor)
P2 - Pad up the low-angle slab above the anchor and gain the wall to the left on coarse, black rock. A short steep face leads up to a ledge and anchor. Can be run together with pitch 3. 5.10- 10m (4 bolts - bolted anchor)
P3 - Leave the belay heading rightward up easy ground in a gully to a small vegetated ledge. Step onto a rock pinnacle and climb the thin face on distinct, yellow rock, then direct finishing up a shallow arête. 5.10- 25m (9 bolts - rap ring anchor)
Descend by walk-off or 2x 30m rappels using rings at FIRE BAN pitch 1 anchor.
FA: Philip Stone, Mick Bromley 13 August 2016

FB FIRE BAN 5.10- 60m ***
One of the longer climbs on the crag with fun climbing and superb atmosphere.
P1 - Start on a good ledge below a small, low roof. Climb steep grey rock to a sharp overlap lip. Pull over the lip to gain corner and climb the right wall direct then move left over blocks and up to a ledge. 5.9 25m (10 bolts - 3 rap rings).
P2 - Scramble up easy grassy ground to a slabby corner. Climb delicately past some detached blocks making a left-trending line up the easy-angled face to a ledge. 5.9 20m (5 bolts - 2 rap rings)
P3 - Climb direct off the ledge up a steep wall in a shallow corner direct to the top ledge 5.7 15m (6 bolts - 2 rap rings)
FA: Philip Stone, Anthonie PrihatiningJati 14 July, 2015

MAIN WALL

The highest, steepest section of the crag. Easily identified by the huge grey corner in the middle of the wall. Routes are best divided into two pitches and mid-stations are grouped on a main ledge system that cuts across the wall at half-height. Various combinations of first and second pitches are easily made.

ED WHERE EAGLES DARE 5.10d 55m ***
P1- Starts 6m to the left of the base of the big grey corner, up a shallow, right-facing corner-ramp system. Climb the ramp (5.10c) with increasing exposure as it narrows. Turn a bulge by swinging out right from the ramp (5.10c/d) and then climb direct to the belay at the left side of the half-way ledge. 25m (12 bolts - rappel ring-chain anchor)
P2 - Climb direct from the belay up a steep corner/chimney (5.10b). Pull out to the left onto an arête and up the face of the arête to gain a small slab above. Climb direct up the face keeping to the right edge with increasing exposure as it steepens near the top. Tricky moves (5.10d) up a thin crack to hero jug finish. 30m (14 bolts - 2 rappel ring anchor).
FA: Philip Stone, Mark Zimmerman 3 May, 2015

T TALON 5.11c *** 55m
A great climb with variety and sustained interest. As good a sport climb as found anywhere - a must do. Best climbed in two pitches.
P1 - Start up the right wall of the big, clean, grey corner in the centre of the face. Climb direct pulling a series of strenuous overlaps on small but positive holds. Trend left into the corner. Step right under a small roof and pull the roof directly to a rest. Step right and then direct up small, steep corners (5.11a) to a thin face. 5.11a 25m (14 bolts - 2 rap rings).
P2 - Leave the belay station to the left up steep, shallow flutes and make a tricky step right (11c) to a small alcove. Step up and then move right (11b) onto the steep face with beautiful, clean rock. Climb direct up the face (10a) to a steep light-red headwall. Tackle the headwall finding good holds in a crack (10b) leading up to easier ground up to the belay. 5.11c 30m (15 bolts - 2 rap ring anchor)
FA: Anthonie PrihatiningJati, Philip Stone 10 May, 2015

RE REBIRTH OF THE EAGLE 5.12a 15m **
An incredible climb in one of the most stunning positions for a sport climb on the west coast. Start up pitch 1 of Talon (11a 14 bolts). From the midway ledge head up to the right climbing up the clean, beige scoop to an overlap. Trend right and up steep face to finish (6 bolts - clip & go anchor - 70m rope to belay & lower from base - 60m ok for rappel).
FA: Anthonie PrihatiningJati, Nic Manders 4 June 2015

CF CAPTAIN FALCON 5.11bR 55m ***
A superb direct line up the very left edge of the main prow. Start ~5m right of Talon up a clean arête direct to the ledge below the upper prow and roof. Pull up into a steep corner above the roof and follow the corner until moves lead out right onto a very exposed arête. Climb direct up an easy slab to steep face to finish. (Runout at bottom & top good Trad Pro in crack - 2 rappel ring anchor).
FA: Bryan Sexauer, Christina Smyth 9 May, 2015

EV EAGLE-ITARIAN VETERINARIAN 5.10+ 15m *
Up the clean, semi-detached pinnacle with a large, square-cut roof 20m right of Talon. Takes the steep wall right of the roof. Fun, sustained climbing direct to a vertical slot to finish. (6 bolts - upper rap anchor - lower anchor for TR). (6 bolts - rap anchor)
FA: Allan Ramsay 3 July, 2016

EAST WING

The right-hand (east) section of Eagle Crag divided into three distinct tiers by a system of mossy ledges that run out leftward from the east top-access trail. The ledges provide good access and walk-offs to/from the belay anchors on each tier. The lower tier is Windfall Wall, the middle tier Switchback Wall and the top tier Flying Snag Wall.

Linking any combination of routes on each of the three tiers makes an excellent 3-pitch adventure with easy escapes off the ledges to join the east-top access trail.

IM INTO THE MIST 5.7 ** 55m
A moderate, fun adventurous climb. This route climbs the very left edge of teh EAST WING. The start is from the main base ledge 50m right (east) of Talon by the last large fir tree on the ledge.
P1 - 27m from the base of the fir tree step out onto the narrow ledge and up a pair of short rock steps. Gain the smooth, black wall and climb a shallow corner direct to a large ledge. Head up the ledge over a short step to a smaller ledge. Climb a short, wide flake-like crack to a roomy, perched belay ledge. (5 bolts +TRAD - 2 rap ring anchor)
P2 - 28m Climb direct from the belay up the short steep wall to the base of a corner. Climb the corner (Trad pro) to a rest and then up blocky rock. Keep to the crest of the narrowing arête with increasing exposure. Great rock, good trad pro. (4 bolts + TRAD - 2 bolt anchor - nearby rap anchor)
Descend by rappel or walk-off.
FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 28 February, 2015

WINDFALL WALL

Windfall Wall is located at the bottom of the East Wing of the Eagle Crag complex, immediately above the main base access trail. It is easy to see from the trail and identified by two large fallen Douglas Fir trees that cross over one another. One of the windfalls crosses the main base access trail so it’s almost impossible to miss as you duck under it.

TR TRAJECTORY 5.10d ** 18m
An excellent climb that takes a direct line up the left side of the clean part of the crag. Start to the right of the undercut roof at the base and climb witheringly steep rock on positive holds. Trend left up steep face then directly up to gain a short lower angle face. Rest at the small ledge and then climb the right wall of the clean corner. Pull a small overlap to easier ground and the belay anchor. (7 bolts - 2 rappel ring anchor).
Route Set: Philip Stone FA: Léo Pontier, Nic Manders 1 May, 2016

RE RE-ENTRY PROJECT ** 19m
Start as for Trajectory but trend right trending up steep face toward the bulging roof. Rest under the bulge and then climb it direct. (2 rap ring anchor).
TOP ROPE PROJECT

SWITCHBACK WALL

A small crag located at mid-height at the right (east) end of the Eagle Crag complex. Switchback Wall is immediately above and left of the east top access trail, halfway up at a prominent switchback where the trail turns to the right. A cool, low-angled access ramp runs up from the far right edge of the wall up to the belay anchors and connects with the ledge at the base of Flying Snag Wall and Raven Corner.

TT TIFFANY TWISTED 5.8 ** 22m
Starts at the base of an old-growth Douglas Fir with a curved trunk 10m left of the east-access trail switchback. Gain the steep face and trend up and left. Climb direct to a shallow corner. Pass the roof up the corner to easier ground. Follow a corner ramp to finish. . (8 bolts - 2 rappel ring anchor).
FA: Philip Stone, Nic Manders 15 April, 2016

SB SWITCHBACK ARÊTE PROJECT ** 25m
Climbs the prominent arête with a ledge break a third of the way up. Start by a pair of large Douglas Fir trees directly by the switchback in the east top-access trail. Climb the face to the right of the arête up to the ledge. Gain the crest of the arête and follow it up to easier climbing and on to the belay anchor. (bolted anchor).
TOP ROPE PROJECT

W WASHBOARD 5.8 ** 20m
To the right of Switchback Arête is a nice even face. Climb the line directly up the centre of the face. (6 bolts - 2 rappel ring anchor).
FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 15 April, 2016

FLYING SNAG WALL

This is the upper tier of the EAST WING and the largest face on this part of Eagle Crag. It can reached from an access trail that winds up forested ledges on the right (east) side of the crag. Follow the path from the base trail up the steep hillside.

There are two ledges that run out across the wall and converge at the base of the climbs. The lower ledge is a narrow, but distinct, angled ramp that runs out to the left from the access path across the top of SWITCHBACK WALL. Higher up at the base of the Raven Corner climbs is a second ledge system that joins the lower ramp at the belay anchors for SWITCHBACK ARÊTE.

MB MISSION BELL 5.11b *** 28m
Cross the exposed but wide base ledge heading left (west) past the base of a fir tree growing out of the base of the rock. Start ~8m left of the fir (single bolt bottom anchor) passing a large square-cut boulder. Gain the wall and climb a shallow corner with parallel cracks (TRAD PRO). Continue up the face direct to a slabby ledge. From the top of the slab tackle the overhanging headwall up a left-trending break to top out on easier ground (10 bolts + TRAD - 2 rap ring anchor).
FA: Josh Overdijck, Philip Stone 8 May, 2015

HC HOTEL CALIFORNIA 5.10b *** 28m
Start 5m left of the fir tree - at the belay anchor for TIFFANY TWISTED. Step up onto a small lip. Climb direct up a shallow, left-facing corner with thin cracks (10a). Continue up a small, steep wall & rounded-bulge (5.9) onto a small slab. Continue up trending right making a tricky move (10-) to a dished ledge. Finish up surprisingly strenuous flutes on the steep headwall (5.9). (15 bolts - 2 rap ring anchor).
FA: Philip Stone, Nic Manders 17 March, 2015

LR THE LONG RUN 5.9 ** 30m
A nice, long, meandering pitch up the middle of the wall, needs care with long draws to minimize rope drag. Start just to the left of the base of the fir tree growing out of the wall up a shallow corner on ledgey holds (5.8). Trend right then up to the large detached block. Step gingerly over the block using the corner to pass the bulging wall (5.9) and traverse right over the lip of the bulge. Trend right into the base of a steep corner and then climb directly up the fun corner (5.6) finish to the belay. (12 bolts - rap ring anchor).
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 22 February, 2015

RAVEN CORNER

Raven Corner is the furthest right (east) end of Eagle Crag. The routes are relatively accessible and much less committing than the climbs on the main faces. It's a good place for a shorter warm up climb and to find a little shade on a hot day.

LH LEVER HERE 5.9 *** 18m
An excellent climb! Takes the well-defined arête to the left of the corner. Gain the base of the arête and stem up the corner until it steepens. Cross the arête leftward and then climb direct to find better holds. Trend up and left with strenuous but super-fun moves to gain the upper face. Climb the steep face to finish. (7 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 17 March, 2015

RO RAVE ON 5.9 ** 15m
A short but deceptively tricky arête at the very far right edge of the crag. Climb the right wall of the corner to gainthe arête on pinches and layways. Trend left into the back of the top of the corner and then finish over a small, steep bulge. (7 bolts - rap ring anchor).
FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 17 March, 2015

LOWER EAGLE

Tucked below Eagle Crag, hidden by tall trees, is this nice, mostly-shaded crag. The wall curves from below the base of Eagle Crag Main Wall into a forested draw below the West Wing. The right (east) side has some nice weathered rock and the wall steepens to the left (west) with some potential for some harder, sporty lines.
Currently the crag with the most untapped development potential in the area.

ACCESS: Follow the access details for Eagle Crag on the previous page following the Beech’s Mountain trail to the washout-creek and then hike along the climber’s path traversing the mossy ledges westward. Pass the east access path junction keeping straight ahead looking for the base of Windfall Wall on the uphill side of the path. Immediately before the eponymous windfall a path breaks off on the downhill side and follows a wide mossy bench to the base of the crag.
Alternatively continue up the talus slope and along the base of the main crag to the base of the West Wing. At the far left (west) end of Eagle Crag a flagged route leads down a forested draw along the base of Lower Eagle, eventually linking with the Morte Lake Trail. The base of Lower Eagle may also be reached from the Morte Lake trail using this same path. 15 minutes from the Morte Lake trailhead watch for a flagged route up an overgrown logging road bed on the uphill side of the trail (right/north). Hike up the road bed following the flags to a steep forest draw. The crag overlooks the draw.

F FLEDGLING 5.8 * 27m
Start at the obvious break in the small, low undercut wall toward the right (east) end of the crag. Climb up passing a mossy ledge to the left and trend left into the base of a ‘V’-notch with a left-facing corner. Pass the notch then up the steep face to the left of the corner direct. An easier variation stems up the corner. (9 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 6 May, 2016

TF TAIL FEATHER 5.9 ** 25m
An obvious line of clean, continuous rock at the right (east) end of the crag. Start up the face climbing direct toward a small roof. Pass the roof to the left to gain the steep face above. Fun moves on small, positive holds direct as the face tapers to an arête. Follow the arête to ledges and the anchor. (8 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Nic Manders 6 May, 2016

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